Guinea Pigs Australia

Understanding Hay Quality for Your Guinea Pigs & Rabbits For guinea pigs and rabbits, hay isn’t just a snack—it’s their number one essential food. In fact, around 80–90% of their daily diet should consist of hay. This high-fibre food keeps their digestive system on track and supports healthy tooth wear, since both species have continuously growing teeth. As a qualified veterinary nurse, I’ve learned that understanding hay quality is key to selecting the right nutrition, texture, and freshness for your pets. Common Hay Types in Australia Australia produces a wide variety of hay suitable for guinea pigs and rabbits. Each type has distinct nutritional profiles and life-stage suitability. Timothy Hay (grass hay) – High fibre, moderate protein, low calcium; ideal for adult guinea pigs & rabbits.Oaten (Oat) Hay – Moderate to high fibre, moderate protein; good for adults who appreciate seed heads and softer texture.Lucerne (Alfalfa) Hay – High protein and calcium; best reserved for young, growing, pregnant or nursing animals.Rhodes Grass Hay – Moderate fibre & protein; coarse, long strands help maintain dental and digestive health in adults.Teff Hay – Fine grass hay, moderate fibre/protein; suits picky eaters or adults who prefer softness. (Values based on CSIRO feed tables and Vetafarm small herbivore data.) Nutritional Balance of Hay Research by CSIRO shows that fibre should dominate the diet for hindgut-fermenters like guinea pigs and rabbits. High-fibre diets keep gut motility steady, support healthy microbial flora, and maintain good dental health. Legume hays like Lucerne are rich in nutrients but can upset this balance if used as the main hay for adults — they’re best used as supplements. Harvest timing matters too: earlier-cut hay tends to be softer and greener (higher protein), while later-cut hay is coarser with higher fibre content. Both have their place depending on pet age and health. Harvesting, Drying & Colour - which hay is best? When hay is cut, dried and stored, its colour, aroma and texture can vary. Green hay often signals good drying and chlorophyll retention, but naturally yellow hay can still be high quality. What matters most is aroma and texture — it should smell fresh and grassy, feel soft to the touch, and not be brittle or musty. Imported Hay & the risk of Gamma Irradiation Some imported hays are gamma‐irradiated as part of Australia’s biosecurity process. This ensures pests or seeds don’t make their way in. Although irradiation (25–50 kGy) can slightly affect vitamins A/E or lipids, it does not reduce fibre quality or overall nutritional value (research by ANSTO & FSANZ). Many owners find imported hay such as premium Timothy offers consistency and high quality, especially when locally grown supplies vary. At Guinea Pigs Australia, we offer both locally grown Australian hay and trusted imported options — giving you choice and flexibility based on your pets’ preferences and budget. How to store your hay - Storage & Airflow Proper storage ensures hay retains its quality. Airflow matters: store in ventilated bags, boxes, or racks so hay can “breathe”.Avoid sealed plastic: airtight plastic can trap moisture and lead to mould.Don’t store it on the ground: to prevent condensation and moisture uptake, keep hay off flooring surfaces.Store in a cool, dry environment: Target 15–25 °C with low humidity.Regular checks: Good hay should feel soft, springy and smell sweet and grassy. How to choose the right hay for your Guinea Pig or Rabbit Fibre first: Hay should make up 80–90% of your guinea pig or rabbit’s diet.Choose based on life stage: Grass hays (Timothy, Oaten, Rhodes, Teff) suit adults; Lucerne is best for young or nursing animals.Freshness over colour: Smell, texture and softness matter more than just the shade of green.Storage counts: Keep hay dry, ventilated, and away from sealed plastic and humidity.Choice is good: Whether locally grown or imported, both types of hay can be excellent when selected and stored properly.Blog References: CSIRO Animal Nutrition – Forage & Fibre Requirements for Small Herbivores. Vetafarm (Australia): “Why High Quality Hay is a Must-Have for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs.” FSANZ: “Food Irradiation and Nutrient Stability.” ANSTO: Gamma Irradiation Review for Agricultural and Animal Feeds. Rothacher J. et al. (2023): A Comparison of Commercially Available Feeds for Rabbits & Guinea Pigs. Department of Agriculture, Fisheries & Forestry (DAFF): Gamma Irradiation Biosecurity Standards.  

Hi everyone! I'm Dr Sam, a piggy-passionate veterinarian, and today we're going to be talking about guinea pig teeth! Guinea Pig Teeth What a lot of people don't realise is guinea pigs actually have 20 teeth, not just the four incisors that we see at the front. They have four incisors, two at the top and two at the bottom, but they also have 16 premolars and molars that live towards the back of their mouths, generally along the side of their cheek. Function of Guinea Pig Teeth The function of the incisors is usually to pick up food, grab things to bite, and sometimes even for fighting. On the other hand, the cheek teeth are used to grind the food down into small pieces for easier swallowing. Unique Dental Characteristics of Guinea Pig Teeth One of the most unique things about guinea pig teeth is that they have what we call open-rooted dentition, meaning that their teeth never stop growing. This is particularly important because if guinea pigs aren't wearing down their teeth enough, they can overgrow, leading to difficulties in eating and potentially life-threatening conditions. Problems Caused by Overgrown Guinea Pig Teeth When guinea pig teeth overgrow, they are unable to occlude properly, leading to further overgrowth. In severe cases, the teeth can grow to the point where they trap the tongue, making it impossible for the guinea pig to move it properly. This makes eating and chewing extremely difficult. You may also notice that if the back teeth are overgrown, the guinea pig may be unable to close its mouth properly. Similar to humans, it becomes very hard to chew, swallow, and eat without closing the mouth and using the tongue. Signs of Dental Disease in Guinea Pigs If your guinea pig has dental disease or tooth overgrowth, some signs to look out for include: Trouble eating Weight loss Dropping food General lethargy While incisor disease can sometimes occur on its own, it is often secondary to more severe dental issues with the cheek teeth. If you notice anything unusual about your guinea pig's incisors, such as an uneven growth angle, it’s best to have a vet check them out to ensure no underlying issues. Treatment and Prognosis for Guinea Pigs Dental surgery is commonly performed on guinea pigs to treat dental disease. Early detection generally leads to a good prognosis. However, in severe cases where significant changes to the teeth and jaw have occurred, the prognosis may be more guarded. Multiple dental procedures may be necessary throughout the guinea pig's lifetime to maintain normal tooth length and function. Preventative Care The best thing you can do to keep your guinea pig's teeth healthy at home is to provide unlimited amounts of grass or hay, preferably in long strands. This gives them something to chew on and helps wear down their back teeth. Additionally, a high vitamin C diet is crucial for their dental health. Offering a good-quality pellet and vitamin C-rich vegetables will further support their well-being. We hope you learned something new about guinea pig dental care. Don’t forget to follow us on socials and join our mailing list for more fun piggy content!  

Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a piggy passionate veterinarian, and one of the questions I often get asked is: “Should I bath my guinea pig?” It’s a great question, and the answer might surprise you. While guinea pigs are naturally quite clean animals who groom themselves regularly, there are some occasions when a bath might be necessary. Let’s talk about when and how to bath your guinea pig safely. Do Guinea Pigs Really Need Baths? In most cases, no, guinea pigs do not require regular bathing. In fact, bathing too often can strip their skin of natural oils and lead to dryness or irritation. However, in certain situations—such as a skin condition, dirty bottom, or when they’ve soiled their guinea pig bed, a gentle bath might be recommended. Older boars or those with long hair can also become a little messier around their rear end and may need the occasional hygiene bath. Preparing for the Bath If you do need to give your guinea pig a bath, preparation is key. Make sure you’re bathing them in a warm, draft-free room. Place a soft towel in the bottom of the sink or a shallow tub to stop them slipping. Have another dry towel ready for wrapping them up afterward. You should always use a small animal shampoo recommended by your vet—never human or dog products. Make sure their guinea pig enclosure is thoroughly cleaned and dry before placing them back in, to avoid chills or skin issues after the bath. How to Bathe Your Guinea Pig Safely Start by gently wetting their back end and working up slowly, avoiding the head and ears. Apply a small amount of shampoo and massage it through the fur. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water to avoid any residue that could irritate the skin. Dry your guinea pig carefully by patting them down with a towel. You can use a hairdryer on a very low, warm (not hot) setting, but always supervise closely and keep the dryer moving to avoid overheating. Make sure your guinea pig returns to a cosy guinea pig bed inside their cage, away from any cold draughts. A bath can be stressful, so it's important they can rest and warm up comfortably afterward. When to Seek Veterinary Advice If your guinea pig is getting very dirty frequently, has a persistent odour, skin changes, or seems uncomfortable, it’s worth booking a vet check. Bathing won’t solve underlying medical issues and, in some cases, could make things worse if not done properly. Remember that a well-kept cage setup helps reduce the need for bathing in the first place. Enrichment also plays a role; toys for guinea pigs can keep them stimulated and active, which aids grooming behaviour. Final Thoughts from Dr Sam Bathing guinea pigs is something that should only be done when absolutely necessary. With the right approach and a bit of preparation, it can be safe and effective. Always observe how your guinea pig reacts and if in doubt, consult your vet. A healthy diet is also crucial. Knowing what guinea pigs eat, including high-fibre hay like Oxbow, helps prevent digestive and skin problems, which in turn reduces the need for grooming interventions. For more advice on caring for your guinea pig, check out our care guide and our blogs – and if in doubt always have a chat to your vet. Happy piggy parenting!