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Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a small animal veterinarian, and today I’d like to talk about a condition that’s quite common in older male guinea pigs, but not often well understood - impaction. If you’ve noticed your guinea pig straining to pass droppings or appearing uncomfortable and smelly around the back end, this blog is for you. What Is Impaction? Impaction occurs when a guinea pig is unable to properly expel faeces from their rectum, causing a build-up in the perineal sac. This is a natural pouch located just inside the anus, and in older male guinea pigs especially, it can become stretched and weakened over time. As a result, faeces and soft droppings can accumulate, leading to discomfort, odour, and potential infection. You may notice your guinea pig is still able to expel normal hard faeces despite the softer faeces and cecotropes becoming impacted.  Who Is Most at Risk? While impaction can technically occur in any guinea pig, it is most commonly seen in older, unneutered males. As guinea pigs age, the muscles responsible for clearing the perineal sac weaken. Impaction is more commonly seen in entire boars as the weight of their large testicles and surrounding fat pads will over time contribute to the stretching and weakening of the muscles and ligaments used to expel faeces. Boars who are neutered in their younger years do not suffer from the same pathology.   Poor diet, obesity, geriatric age and limited mobility can also increase the risk - especially if they are not able to reach their perineal sac and maintain their own hygiene as easily.  Signs to Watch For The most obvious sign of impaction is a noticeable swelling or lump near your guinea pig’s bottom. You may also observe straining, dragging of the bottom, reduced appetite, or soft droppings smeared around the hindquarters. Some guinea pigs may become less active or appear grumpy due to discomfort. If you notice a foul smell or discharge, this could indicate infection, which requires immediate veterinary attention. How to Manage and Treat Impaction If your guinea pig is showing signs of impaction, I strongly recommend a veterinary examination to rule out other issues such as infection and other underlying issues, as well as to ensure your piggy is receiving the correct treatment. In many cases, mild impaction can be managed at home with regular cleaning of the perineal sac. This involves manual evacuation and gentle removal of the built-up faecal matter. This can be uncomfortable for your guinea pig if caution is not taken, so it is important to use a lubricant such as baby oil to help with the evacuation, along with some cotton tips and gentle pressure. It is normal to have an unpleasant odour, however please consult your veterinarian if the smell is strong or you suspect there may be an infection present. I also recommend to wear gloves during the cleaning process.  Some guinea pigs may also benefit from weight management, increased exercise, or dietary adjustments. Ensuring your pet lives in a clean, spacious indoor cage for guinea pigs with plenty of opportunity to move around and forage can go a long way in supporting their gut health. Providing soft, absorbent guinea pigs beds also helps prevent faecal matter from sticking and creating further hygiene problems. Final Thoughts from Dr Sam Impaction can be quite uncomfortable for your piggy, but it is a manageable condition. Unfortunately once the area stretches it is very difficult to reverse those changes and often becomes a life long condition, however early detection and early intervention is key to prevent the condition from worsening.   Like many guinea pig health issues, prevention is often easier than treatment. The most effective way of preventing impaction in guinea pigs is desexing at a younger age, and I encourage you to have this conversation with your cavy savvy vet. Keeping your guinea pigs healthy with a good diet high in fibre, and ability to exercise and move around will also help to keep their digestive health in check.  If you're ever unsure about your guinea pig’s behaviour or bowel habits, please don’t hesitate to contact your cavy savvy veterinarian. Catching these issues early really does make a world of difference. 

  What exactly is Bumblefoot? (Or otherwise known as PODODERMATITIS) Pododermatitis, or more commonly referred to as ‘bumblefoot’ is a condition causing inflammation of the footpads – ‘PODO’ meaning foot, and ‘DERMATITIS’ meaning inflammation of the skin. It is essentially a pressure sore caused by prolonged pressure on the skin, and can become very severe and painful. Unfortunately it is one of the MOST COMMON conditions and reasons why guinea pigs present to veterinarians. What causes bumblefoot to develop?  This condition is often caused by reduced mobility where the guinea pig stands in one place for prolonged periods of time, causing increased pressure on the feet and reduced blood flow and circulation. Conditions such as obesity, arthritis, lameness, pain, and other illnesses that result in reduced mobility can also predispose to the development of bumblefoot.  Another common cause is housing with hard and inappropriate flooring. Cages that have wire bottoms, particularly a lot of outdoor cages used to be very popular, however we now know the detrimental effects that hard wire can have on sensitive piggy feet.  What does Bumblefoot look like? It usually starts with just some reddening of the skin on the bottom of the feet, this can be quite mild and will usually resolve once the underlying cause has been corrected, such as providing soft bedding, encouraging exercise or treating any illness.  If the underlying cause is not corrected, the condition will continue to progress and ulcers will start to form. These ulcers are extremely painful and will result in guinea pigs not wanting to walk, further exacerbating the condition. These ulcers will continue getting deeper and more severe, and the foot will start to swell and increase in size. When ulcers develop, guinea pigs will be more at risk of developing secondary infections in the open wounds, especially if they are standing on moist or soiled bedding.  Eventually, due to being under constant pressure, blood flow will stop going to the most impacted areas, and the tissue will start to die off. Eventually the infection will reach the underlying soft tissue, tendons, joints and bones, which holds a very poor prognosis for recovery. Severe conditions can also start to impact liver and kidney function.   *photos shared from Oxbow Animal Health Website Is my guinea pig at risk of bumblefoot? Bumblefoot is a very common condition, and can affect any guinea pig at any time, however there are a few predisposing factors that may put them at increased risk.  • Medical conditions or illness that leads to inactivity • Obesity, putting extra weight on the feet and joints - Obese guinea pigs are also often less active• Restricted cage space that inhibits your guinea pig from moving around • Abrasive flooring, wire bottom cages, concrete and hard floor surfaces. Rough straw bedding can also cause foot punctures.  • Poor sanitation - moist and unhygienic conditions such as urine and faecal soiling of the feet will aggravate the condition and be more likely to develop secondary infections. • Hypovitaminosis C (Vitamin C deficiency) leads to abnormal skin collagen formation, and delayed  wound healing.  • Poor conformation such as limb deformities or lameness, which leads to increased weight bearing on the other feet What should I do if I suspect my guinea pig has developed pododermatitis? Veterinary care should be sought for all cases of suspected bumblefoot, even if the condition is only mild, as it can be very painful (think about walking with blisters on your feet all day).  The most important part of treating pododermatitis is to resolve the underlying cause for the condition.  This may involve providing appropriate bedding or cage substrate creating soft surfaces for your pet to stand and lie on, and ensuring the housing is clean , dry and sanitary. A vet visit is always warranted as the earlier it can be treated the better the prognosis is. If your pet appears unwell or other medical conditions have lead to the reduced mobility, more tests or treatment by your veterinarian may be required to resolve the underlying illness. If your guinea pig is not eating it will require supplement feeding to provide adequate nutrition. Burgess Dual Care is a great supplement feed if required and we highly recommend every piggy owner has some stocked up in their piggy emergency kit.  More severe conditions that involve ulceration, swelling of the foot, and involvement of bones and tendons will require long and extensive medical or surgical management. Treatment can be difficult, and a very long and labour intensive road to recovery. Some treatment options depending on the severity of the condition may involve pain relief, antibiotics, cleaning and dressing of wounds by your veterinarian, and in some very severe cases amputation of the limb or euthanasia. How can I prevent my guinea pig from getting pododermatitis? The best way to prevent bumblefoot is to avoid the predisposing risk factors.  • Provide soft bedding and flooring surfaces. Vet bed or Ozzy liners are a great option. Avoid housing guinea pigs in cages with wire bottoms or hard and abrasive surfaces.  • Provide good husbandry and a clean and sanitary environment. Choose a bedding that wicks away moisture to prevent urine scalding and bacteria from entering any wounds.  • Provide a suitable diet, ensuring dietary Vitamin C requirements are met. Offer a complete diet consisting of good quality hay, good quality pellets high in Vitamin C, and a variety of fresh vegetables daily.  • Provide a large cage with ample floor space to encourage mobility and exercise. We highly recommend Ozzy cages as they are completely customisable, can be made to fit any space in your home and are easy to expand if your piggy numbers increase. They can also be easily fitted with soft bedding, and are easy to clean and maintain. Ozzy cages are made with your pets health in mind and tick all the boxes to keep their little feet happy and healthy. • Monitor your piggies weight and avoid obesity. It is important to encourage exercise, by both providing a large enclosure with plenty of floor space for zoomies and popcorning, as well as providing different toys and accessories to keep your piggies entertained.  Check out our YOUTUBE CHANNEL for more healthcare videos 

"Guinea Pigs are small - they don't need a lot of space!" - FALSE One of the first and most important parts of guinea pig ownership, is providing them with an appropriate cage or housing option. The average lifespan of indoor guinea pigs is also about 5-7 years, so it is important they have an enriching and stimulating environment as over this time they can easily become bored in a small space! Unfortunately many of the commercial cages marketed for guinea pigs, for example many of those found in pet stores, are not actually suitable to house our piggies and keep them happy and healthy. Guinea pigs may be small animals, however they need a LOT more space than people realise to zoom, popcorn and stretch their legs - and providing them with ample space to move also helps to avoid a tonne of serious health issues!  History of Guinea Pig Housing:  Going back 20, or even 10 years ago, we didn’t understand the full animal welfare needs of guinea pigs and the requirements needed for them to express their natural behaviours like they would in the wild. Thankfully animal welfare has come a long way since then, and guinea pigs have now become valued members of the family, with a lot more research into adequate welfare standards!  Previously, it was very common for guinea pigs to be housed full time in outdoor hutches, where they were susceptible to unpredictable environmental changes including both heat stress and cold stress, as well as predators such as dogs, cats, snakes and birds. Living outdoors generally means they had a lot less interaction with family members.  A lot of the older cages, and even many still on the market today, have wire bottom flooring, which we now know is very irritating to their little paws and predisposes to the development of foot ulcers and bumblefoot - which can in the severe cases be life threatening!   Even now a lot of cages available in pet shops do not meet the minimum size requirements for guinea pigs, hence why today I’m going to be focusing on choosing the right Ozzy Cage for your family and piggies.  Cage Setup Considerations So firstly, you need to know how many guinea pigs you are going to house, and what sex they are. As guinea pigs are such social animals it is always recommended to house a minimum of 2 together so they have a friend. FUN FACT: Switzerland has passed legislation making it illegal to only own 1 guinea pig, in order to fulfill their requirements for social interactions.  Generally, if you are going to house two or more male guinea pigs together your cage size should be a touch larger to give them some more space. Boars especially can be extremely territorial and for the safety of your guinea pigs should have enough space to have “time out” from each other to prevent fighting and injuries.  The great thing however about Ozzy cages, is that if you ever get more guinea pigs or change combinations, it’s easy to expand your cage either in length or by adding multiple levels.   Minimum Cage Size: The area for our critters must be as spacious as possible. Cavies need at least 70 square centimetres of cage space each to be happy and healthy. Male guinea pigs need even MORE room - at least 1 square metre of cage space each, to prevent fights over territory. See our chart below for ideal cage size vs. how many piggies you have.  Multi-Level Cages: Cages with multiple levels can be beneficial as long as they provide safe, easy access between levels with ample floor space. These cages should still meet the minimum floor space requirements, but the extra levels can provide additional enrichment and exploration opportunities. ⚠️ WARNING: A lot of 'vertical style' cages are marketed for guinea pigs but they are not suitable! They often have steep, short ramps and very limited area for your piggies to move around. The height of these levels are also dangerous for guinea pigs if they fall. While these cages are great for mice and rats that can climb, they are unsafe and unsuitable for guinea pigs. Ozzy cages have developed safe ramps specifically designed for the body shape and mobility of guinea pigs in mind - these ramps are not excessively steep, are safe and sturdy, have carpet grip and have a cover add on to prevent the risk of any accidents. Shop our Ozzy Ramps here.    Benefits of large cages and floor space:  Ability to express natural behaviours: Guinea pigs need a large area to explore, popcorn, rumblestrutt, and run laps, and this requires a certain degree of space. They should be able to exhibit and effectively communicate with one another without having objects or walls preventing this or getting in the way.  Exercise: Larger cages allow your pets to move around freely, promoting exercise, preventing obesity, and improving overall health.  Mental Stimulation: A larger cage provides more opportunities for mental stimulation through exploration, hiding spots, and different areas to investigate, reducing boredom and encouraging natural behaviors! Social Interaction:  Larger enclosures can accommodate critters social nature, allowing for more harmonious interactions and reducing fights. Improved Health: Critters who receive regular exercise are less prone to obesity related issues such as liver, heart and respiratory distress and disease. Boars will also be less prone to developing impaction problems.  Enrichment: You can add various toys, tunnels, platforms, and hideouts in a larger space, enhancing the environment and encouraging natural behaviors like foraging and exploring. Check out our store for lots of playtime goodies! Easier Maintenance: Believe it or not, a larger cage often means easier and less frequent cleaning as poops are more dispersed! It can also be easier to spot clean and maintain hygiene in a larger space. Guinea pigs will commonly poop in the corners of the cage, which means they aren't left to sit in their faeces and can move away to different areas for living and napping.  Companionship: Guinea pigs are social animals and should ideally be kept in pairs or small groups. Having more than one guinea pig means they’ll need more space to interact and play, which is a consideration when setting up their living area. Read more on piggy companionship here. Enjoy 10% off our entire Ozzy C&C Cage collection with our special discount code OZZYBLOG10 : https://guineapigsaustralia.com.au/pages/ozzy-c-c-cages Watch here to find out all you need to know about selecting the right OZZY CAGE for you and your piggies! 

The age old question – should guinea pigs be kept indoors or outdoors? Historically guinea pigs were primarily outdoor pets, kept in hutches or cages all throughout the year. In most recent times however, guinea pigs just like dogs and other companion animals, have become more intimate family members and welcomed more readily into the home.   Guinea pigs definitely benefit from a combination of inside and outside time, and a change of scenery between the two can be both enriching and engaging for our curious critters – but which one is the best for option for their more permanent housing? Indoor housing There really are minimal disadvantages to indoor housing, as it generally provides a safe, temperature controlled and predator free environment for your piggies to live. Not only do they tend to live longer lives by reducing access to these potentially life threatening risks, but it also increases the bond between humans and guinea pigs as they spend more time with and around the family. Spending more time with your piggies, handling them and watching them in their natural environment will also allow you to pick up on any abnormalities or signs of illness earlier, which could also save your piggies life.   The main disadvantage most people report for keeping their piggies indoors is mess and odour – both of which can be easily managed and prevented. We highly recommend using an Ozzy Hay sack, Wheek Wagon or Kitchenette to help keep your piggies hay clean and contained, and what’s more fun than choosing an adorable bowl to place their pellets and veggies in?! As any piggy parent knows, our favourite furry critters are little poop and pee machines! So it doesn’t take long for an odour to develop if their cages are not maintained appropriately. Ultimately, the choice of bedding you choose and the frequency in which you clean your cage is going to make all the difference. We highly recommend purchasing a good quality and absorbent bedding that wicks away moisture and odour, as well as something that is easy to clean and change. Personally after using many different types of bedding in the past, I have found the *NEW* Ozzy Cage Liners to be one of the most efficient and easiest beddings to manage – shake off the poops, pop it in the washing machine and hang on the line for an hour, and it is back in the piggies cage in no time! So quick and easy, which allows me to clean their cage more frequently without needing to allow an hour or more for the process. Outdoor Housing As mentioned above, allowing your guinea pigs some time outdoors can be a very enriching and exciting experience for them, with a change of scenery, fresh grass to nibble on and soaking up that vitamin D, what’s not to love? Unfortunately many guinea pigs have met their peril outdoors with access to so many uncontrollable risks and we highly recommend supervised outdoor time only to mitigate these threats. One of the biggest threats our guinea pigs suffer outdoors is the ever changing weather conditions and climate. They are very sensitive creatures, and quite susceptible to both the extreme heat and extreme cold. As we know the weather can change from one extreme to another within a matter of hours, with unexpected rain, hail, snow, or heatwaves – putting our piggies lives at risk. Heat stroke is one of the most common silent killers of guinea pigs, and is unfortunately most common in those kept outdoors, often occurring when the shade moves throughout the day and guinea pigs are left exposed to direct heat and sunlight. Likewise, particularly in the evenings, temperatures can drop quite significantly, affecting our piggies core body temperature resulting in hypothermia and death. Outdoor guinea pigs are also threatened by many different predators they wouldn’t normally come across inside the home such as wild snakes or carnivorous birds such as hawks and birds of prey. There is also the risk of stray cats and dogs entering the yard and attacking the piggies, either physically harming them or psychologically causing significant stress. In conclusion After assessing the many benefits and risks associated with each type of housing, our conclusion is strongly in support of indoor housing options for guinea pigs, in combination with supervised outside time. Guinea pigs who are housed indoors are generally more bonded to their owners, receive medical attention in a more timely manner, and have a significantly reduced mortality rate in regards to heatstroke, hypothermia and predator attacks. Use code BLOG10 for 10% off Ozzy Cage Accessories for your indoor cage 🏠 Check out our social media channels for some more cage design inspo!  Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JitMYBUKM34 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/guineapigsaus Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/guineapigsaustralia/ Tik Tok: https://www.tiktok.com/@guineapigs_australia

Playtime for Guinea Pigs Guinea pigs and bunnies are naturally curious creatures, and can become easily bored if their enclosure constantly stays the same, or they are left without things to keep them stimulated!  Thankfully, enrichment for critters isn't difficult, and there are lots of simple ideas you can put in place to keep your pets happy. 1. Hideys:Provide small houses or hideaways made of pet-safe wood, cardboard or fleece where your guinea pig can retreat and feel safe.SHOP HIDEYS2. Foraging Toys:Hide treats, grass or pellets in toys designed for foraging to encourage natural behaviors and provide mental stimulation.SHOP FORAGING TOYS3. Rotate toys and cage setup regularly:Rotate toys, accessories and rearrange your pets' cage setup regularly to keep things fresh and interesting for your pets.CLICK HERE FOR CAGE SETUP INSPIRATION4. Chew Toys:Offer a variety of chew toys made from safe materials like untreated wood, hay, or seagrass to help keep your critters' teeth trimmed and provide mental stimulation.SHOP CHEW TOYS5. Tunnels:Guinea pigs and rabbits love to explore, so adding tunnels or tubes can offer them a fun way to move around and play in their enclosure.SHOP TUNNELS6. Social Interaction:Guinea pigs are social animals and benefit from regular interaction with other guinea pigs and their human companions. Spend time interacting with them, offering gentle handling, and talking to them to build trust and bond with them. Our cuddle scarves are a great way for both you and your pet to relax together!

Whether by colour theming everything, having cute accessories or having extra space to zoom, there are lots of ways you can make your pets' cage X-traordinary!

Vegetables play an important part of a critter's diet.    While grassy hay is the MOST important, a cup of veggies for your pet once or twice a day helps keep your pet's health and gut in check.   Offer your floofs a nice variety!Some veggies can be fed daily, while others are best in moderation due to their higher calcium, acidity or 'bloat' content (we've marked these for you on our "Veggie" Table 👇). Remember to also load up on veggies high in Vitamin C - as piggies can't produce this vitamin by themselves (just like us hoomans!). We recommend capsicums everyday to make sure your pets get their daily dose - they just LOVE them (seeds and all!)!And of course, along with veggies, fruit and pellets, always ensure your pets have constant access to grassy hay, all day!Which vegetable is your piggy's favourite? Bon Appétit!

As guinea pig owners there are many responsibilities involved with keeping them happy and healthy - and one of those things is performing regular health checks. Guinea pigs are prey animals, and therefore notorious for trying to hide any signs of illness, so it's important to take the time each day to have a close look and make sure everything is normal and healthy. If you do notice any abnormalities or concerns, it is highly recommended to visit your veterinarian asap as some conditions can become quite serious, quite quickly, hence early detection is key to a positive prognosis.  Complete 'nose to tail' Health Check Guide Nose - Should be clear, with no signs of crusting or discharge. Excessive sneezing or 'breathing sounds' can be a sign of respiratory disease.  Ears - Should be clean, with no crusting or discharge. It is NORMAL for guinea pigs to have a small hairless patch behind each ear.  Eyes - Both eyes should be clear and fully opened. If your guinea pig is holding an eye shut or squinting, please consult your veterinarian - hay poke injuries and corneal ulceration is a common and serious condition. Guinea pig eye colour can vary between red, brown and black. BLUE discoloration is abnormal, and should be checked by a veterinarian immediately.   Mouth - Guinea pigs have many teeth, but the easiest to examine are the 4 incisors easily visible at the front of the mouth - these incisors should be even in length, and the top and bottom should meet together. Overgrown incisors can be a sign of more serious and complicated dental disease, and should be investigated further. The mouth and chin should also be dry, with no signs of drooling or panting. Skin and coat - Should be clean and free of dirt, matts and knots. Check for signs of wounds, hairloss, crusting or excess scratching. As mentioned above, it is normal to have a small bald patch behind each ear. Hair loss can be an indication of trauma, parasites or endocrine related disease.  Feet and nails - Check each paw for any signs of redness, swelling or sores. Guinea pigs require nail trimming about every 4-6 weeks and ideally should be kept nice and short. Nail trimming can be intimidating, so check out our video on nail trimming here for some tips and tricks to help you at home.  Toileting - Poops should be solid, brown, oval in shape and passed frequently. Soft, small, stringy, or abnormal faeces can be a sign of many serious underlying medical conditions.  The colour of urine can vary between clear to a light red colour, however signs of blood or straining to urinate is abnormal. You can read more about normal and abnormal urine here.  Weight - The normal weight for adult guinea pigs is between 800 - 1200grams, with males being slightly heavier than females. Weekly weigh in's are important to detect early signs of weight loss and various medical conditions.  Behaviour - Check daily to make sure your guinea pig is eating and drinking normally. A healthy guinea pig should appear bright, alert and active. Any changes in their behaviour can be a sign of underlying illness.

Did you know urinary stones (otherwise known as uroliths) are a very common condition in guinea pigs, and can become life threatening?!  Read on to find out all you need to know about urinary stones in guinea pigs.  HOW ARE URINARY STONES FORMED?  Most urinary stones are formed from excess calcium in the body. Calcium excretion through the urine is a normal process for guinea pigs, however when there becomes too much calcium (usually from high levels of ingestion through the diet), the excess calcium begins to sediment in the kidneys and bladder, forming what we know as 'sludge'.  This 'sludge' has a very gritty sand-like texture, and can be dense, heavy, and difficult for the body to excrete. Sometimes this sludge will stick together forming small stones - known as uroliths. These uroliths can continue to get bigger and bigger, and in some cases can get very large!  WHAT HAPPENS WHEN URINARY STONES FORM? HOW DOES IT BECOME LIFE THREATENING?  Urinary stones can form anywhere along the urinary tract, including the kidneys, ureters, bladder and urethra.    These stones can be very painful for the guinea pigs. They cause a lot of pain and localised inflammation as they travel down the narrow passage of the ureters and urethra, and can move around inside the bladder irritating the bladder wall. This can also cause bleeding, which people often notice in the urine.  Uroliths become life threatening when they either cause so much pain the guinea pig stops eating or behaving normally; resulting in gut stasis, dental disease, pododermatitis and other health conditions, or when the stones cause a urinary obstruction by blocking either the ureters or urethra and not allowing urine to pass through. If this occurs it becomes an emergency and veterinary care is required immediately.  WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF URINARY STONES?  The most common sign people tend to notice is RED URINE. If urinary stones are involved the red tinge is caused by blood in the urine. It is important to note however that guinea pigs can also get pigmenturia, which is a discolouration of urine caused by eating coloured vegetables such as beets, and is not always blood.  You might also notice VOCALISATION or DISCOMFORT when urinating, or when touching their abdomen, or ABNORMALITIES WITH URINATION such as small frequent amounts, straining to urinate or dripping urine.  Due to pain your guinea pig may also have a DECREASED APPETITE or appear LETHARGIC.  WHAT PREDISPOSES MY GUINEA PIG GETTING URINARY STONES?  High Calcium diets, such as lucerne and alfalfa hay. These types of hay should be reserved only for young guinea pigs who are growing, or pregnant guinea pigs who utilise the extra calcium through formation of foetal skeletons and producing milk during lactation. There are also some vegetables that are very high in calcium such as spinach, parsley and kale, and should be fed only a few times a week.  Not drinking enough water is another common cause. If your guinea pig is not drinking enough or does not have constant access to clean, fresh water, the filtration by the kidneys is reduced, and also results in less 'flushing' of the urinary tract to remove the excess calcium.  Urinary tract infections can increase the risk of urinary stone formation. Guinea pigs with UTI's will display similar signs to those with urinary stones and a vet visit is warranted.  Obesity, Inactivity and pain from other conditions  Kidney disease  HOW ARE URINARY STONES TREATED?  If you suspect your guinea pig has urinary stones, or you have noticed any changes with their behaviour or urination, a vet visit is always recommended. Pain relief is one of the most important modes of treatment, as pain in guinea pigs can lead to many other health conditions such as gut stasis, dental disease and bumblefoot. Your veterinarian will provide your guinea pig with adequate analgesia to make them comfortable.  Your veterinarian will most likely perform some tests on a urine sample, take blood to assess kidney function and other body organs, and perform imaging such as an xray or ultrasound to help diagnose the condition.  Image credit: Exotic Vet Clinic  If your guinea pigs have tiny stones or sludge, your vet may be able to flush the urinary tract with catheterisation under sedation or an anaesthetic. If larger stones are present your guinea pig may require surgery, where they undergo a full general anaesthetic and the stones are removed directly from the bladder through a procedure called a cystotomy.  Feeding a balanced diet is also an important part of treatment. Limiting the amount of HIGH calcium vegetables to only a few times a week can reduce the likelihood of urinary stone formation. It is NOT recommended to remove these foods completely as calcium along with other nutrients such as Vitamin C are an important part of a guinea pigs diet, and balance and variety is key. You can find many resources online outlining the calcium and vitamin C content of different fruits and vegetables. 

Temperatures are dropping and Winter is fast approaching, but here at GPA we have you sorted with everything you and your guinea pigs need to stay warm and cozy.  WATCH our latest video below:  2 in 1 hut - why we love it!  - Australian handmade  - Cute guinea pig design  - Converts from a hut to a bed  - 2 layers of fleece with central foam  - Free potty pad included - Hand or machine washable  HAYPIGS RANGE -Why we love it!  -Fun circus theme  -Crash mat is a large size and pee resistant - perfect for lap cuddles! -Circus Hidey Hut comes with 2 interchangeable pee pads and is a warm, cozy and secure place to sleep and hide -Machine washable products  -https://guineapigsaustralia.com.au/collections/hidey-houses-guinea-pigs   VET BED - Why we love it!  - Super soft and comfy  - Heaps of fun patterns to choose from and made to fit any cage size  - Heat retention: This bedding is designed for temperature control and retention in mind. It allows the guinea pigs own body heat to create a comfortable place to sleep, rest and snuggle. In summer months the bedding also allows for a cool place to rest as the high density fibres allow adequate air flow throughout the mat.  - Keeps your pets dry with a unique drainage and moisture wicking system which is woven in the under layer -Machine washable  -https://guineapigsaustralia.com.au/collections/vet-bed FLEECE LINERS - Why we love them!  - Australian handmade - Lots of fun patterns to customise your guinea pigs home  - Super absorbent to wick away moisture keeping your guinea pigs warm and dry - Easy to clean and machine washable  HANDMADE FLEECE ACCESSORIES - Why we love them!  - Australian handmade  - VARIETY- Lap pads, tunnels, hides, beds, fleece forests and more!  - Super soft and snuggly with many different patterns and designs  HAY - Why we love it!  - Doubles as a bed and a food source  - Fun to hide and burrow in, providing great enrichment  - Nutritious and integral part of the diet  - Good quality, soft hay reduces the chance of injury  -https://guineapigsaustralia.com.au/collections/hay-products   SHOP TODAY for all your guinea pig and rabbit needs. Proudly Aussie owned and operated, supporting small business. 

Everything you need to know about Rex piggies!