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Neutering guinea pigs, is also alternatively referred to as sterilisation or desexing. It is a sensitive topic for many guinea pig owners as there is without a doubt a risk for our furry little friends to undergo an anaesthetic and surgical procedure (just like any other animal or human)  – however the risk is relative depending on the knowledge and experience of your cavy-savvy veterinarian and overall health of your guinea pig. There are many health benefits to neutering guinea pigs, including eliminating the risk of various types of reproductive cancers and other health conditions.  WHAT HAPPENS DURING A NEUTERING PROCEDURE? First lets go over some basic definitions: Castration is the correct term for the procedure in male guinea pigs, and involves surgical removal of both testicles. Spey (or spay) is the correct term for neutering female guinea pigs, and usually involves removal of both ovaries and the uterus. There are a number of different surgical methods to sterilise female guinea pigs, including only removing the ovaries or uterus independently – however leaving either of these organs behind can lead to reproductive cysts and tumours. We recommend having a conversation with your surgeon in regards to the best options for your guinea pig.  What happens on the day of the surgery will vary between different veterinary hospitals, however most veterinarians will recommend bringing your guinea pig in for a hospital admit appointment in the morning where you will go through some paperwork with the vet or nurses. If you have any questions this is a great opportunity to ask (we also recommend having a consultation prior to surgery day to discuss your pet, their surgical plan, and any concerns you may have. This also allows for the opportunity for your vet to collect a blood sample and send away for testing ahead of surgery, to ensure they are fit and healthy – making for a safer anaesthetic and procedure! Generally it is a day procedure and your guinea pig will be ready for discharge in the evening. Some veterinarians may recommend keeping your pets in hospital longer for monitoring and supportive care until they have completely recovered from the anaesthetic and are eating, pooping, and ready to go home.  AT WHAT AGE SHOULD I NEUTER MY GUINEA PIG? Generally speaking it is recommended to desex your guinea pigs whilst they are young, strong and healthy, prior to developing any underlying health conditions or reproductive disorders. Exact age recommendations do vary, and it is recommended to discuss this with your local cavy savvy veterinarian to find the age and size they are comfortable with.  WHAT ARE SOME IMPORTANT ASPECTS OF MY GUINEA PIGS RECOVERY AFTER SURGERY Guinea pigs have very complex gastrointestinal microflora, and any kind of drugs or anaesthetics can quickly disrupt the sensitive balance that facilitates digestion. One of the most common post-operative complications in guinea pigs is gastrointestinal stasis where the gut slows down, and sometimes even stops moving – this becomes a life threatening condition! It is very important we ensure our guinea pigs are constantly eating, especially after undergoing an anaesthetic or surgery, keeping their gastrointestinal tract moving along. Burgess Dual Care or Oxbow Critical Care are two great products that are very important for post-op recovery, as they allow us to syringe feed and supplement our guinea pigs diet with high fibre and nutrient rich ingredients. Guinea pigs are notorious chewers as we know, and unfortunately this means that sometimes they choose to chew their surgical site as well! It is important to visualise the surgical site every day until it is completely healed, and if you do notice any redness, swelling, discharge or inflammation, be sure to check in with your vet for a post-op check to make sure everything is ok. It is important to keep your guinea pigs home clean, dry and hygienic in their recovery period. This is because guinea pigs have such short little legs, their surgical sites (particularly males) are often touching the ground. Lying in moist or unsanitary conditions will increase the risk of developing post-op infections, which can also become life threatening! Male guinea pigs can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks after surgical sterilisation – this means we highly recommend keeping him separate from any female piggies during this time period to avoid any unwanted pregnancies. WHAT ARE THE HEALTH BENEFITS TO DESEXING MY FEMALE GUINEA PIG? Reduction in unwanted pregnancies. This is one of the most obvious and important reasons behind desexing, as unfortunately our Aussie rescues and shelters are overflowing with unwanted guinea pigs looking for homes! Did you know the average litter size is between about 2 and 4 pups, and female guinea pigs can have up to 5 litters per year?! This means that they can have around 20 pups per year - which is a lot of babies to find homes for! Not to mention the health implications it can have on the sow.  Eliminates the risk of uterine and ovarian cancers  Eliminates the risk of cystic ovaries - a very common condition in female guinea pigs. Generally cysts are benign in nature, however can grow very large and cause pain and discomfort as well as hormonal hair loss.   Reduces the risk of mammary cancer development   WHAT ARE THE HEALTH BENEFITS TO DESEXING MY MALE GUIINEA PIG? Just like female guinea pigs, it will stop unwanted pregnancies. Neutered boars often live quite happily amongst a herd of sows. If you are wanting to keep both male and female guinea pigs together but avoid frequent pregnancies, the surgical procedure to sterilise male guinea pigs is much less invasive and poses a lower risk of peri-operative and post-operative complications than that of a female. Eliminates risk of testicular cancer Decreases the risk of faecal impaction. This is a common development in older, entire boars, where faeces gets stuck inside the anus. This starts to accumulate over time, and will develop a strong and unpleasant odour, as well as cause local irritation, local infections or even urinary tract infections. Due to the large size of guinea pig testicles, over time they start to weigh down the surrounding areas, stretching ligaments and tissue, and reducing muscle tone that is used to expel faecal pellets normally. If your guinea pig develops faecal impaction, it will require daily cleaning and maintenance (which is not an overly fun job). You may notice a decrease in certain unwanted behaviours such as aggression, humping and mounting. Note neutering boars will often reduce these behaviours however is not guaranteed to stop these behaviours in all guinea pigs.  

  What exactly is Bumblefoot? (Or otherwise known as PODODERMATITIS) Pododermatitis, or more commonly referred to as ‘bumblefoot’ is a condition causing inflammation of the footpads – ‘PODO’ meaning foot, and ‘DERMATITIS’ meaning inflammation of the skin. It is essentially a pressure sore caused by prolonged pressure on the skin, and can become very severe and painful. Unfortunately it is one of the MOST COMMON conditions and reasons why guinea pigs present to veterinarians. What causes bumblefoot to develop?  This condition is often caused by reduced mobility where the guinea pig stands in one place for prolonged periods of time, causing increased pressure on the feet and reduced blood flow and circulation. Conditions such as obesity, arthritis, lameness, pain, and other illnesses that result in reduced mobility can also predispose to the development of bumblefoot.  Another common cause is housing with hard and inappropriate flooring. Cages that have wire bottoms, particularly a lot of outdoor cages used to be very popular, however we now know the detrimental effects that hard wire can have on sensitive piggy feet.  What does Bumblefoot look like? It usually starts with just some reddening of the skin on the bottom of the feet, this can be quite mild and will usually resolve once the underlying cause has been corrected, such as providing soft bedding, encouraging exercise or treating any illness.  If the underlying cause is not corrected, the condition will continue to progress and ulcers will start to form. These ulcers are extremely painful and will result in guinea pigs not wanting to walk, further exacerbating the condition. These ulcers will continue getting deeper and more severe, and the foot will start to swell and increase in size. When ulcers develop, guinea pigs will be more at risk of developing secondary infections in the open wounds, especially if they are standing on moist or soiled bedding.  Eventually, due to being under constant pressure, blood flow will stop going to the most impacted areas, and the tissue will start to die off. Eventually the infection will reach the underlying soft tissue, tendons, joints and bones, which holds a very poor prognosis for recovery. Severe conditions can also start to impact liver and kidney function.   *photos shared from Oxbow Animal Health Website Is my guinea pig at risk of bumblefoot? Bumblefoot is a very common condition, and can affect any guinea pig at any time, however there are a few predisposing factors that may put them at increased risk.  • Medical conditions or illness that leads to inactivity • Obesity, putting extra weight on the feet and joints - Obese guinea pigs are also often less active• Restricted cage space that inhibits your guinea pig from moving around • Abrasive flooring, wire bottom cages, concrete and hard floor surfaces. Rough straw bedding can also cause foot punctures.  • Poor sanitation - moist and unhygienic conditions such as urine and faecal soiling of the feet will aggravate the condition and be more likely to develop secondary infections. • Hypovitaminosis C (Vitamin C deficiency) leads to abnormal skin collagen formation, and delayed  wound healing.  • Poor conformation such as limb deformities or lameness, which leads to increased weight bearing on the other feet What should I do if I suspect my guinea pig has developed pododermatitis? Veterinary care should be sought for all cases of suspected bumblefoot, even if the condition is only mild, as it can be very painful (think about walking with blisters on your feet all day).  The most important part of treating pododermatitis is to resolve the underlying cause for the condition.  This may involve providing appropriate bedding or cage substrate creating soft surfaces for your pet to stand and lie on, and ensuring the housing is clean , dry and sanitary. A vet visit is always warranted as the earlier it can be treated the better the prognosis is. If your pet appears unwell or other medical conditions have lead to the reduced mobility, more tests or treatment by your veterinarian may be required to resolve the underlying illness. If your guinea pig is not eating it will require supplement feeding to provide adequate nutrition. Burgess Dual Care is a great supplement feed if required and we highly recommend every piggy owner has some stocked up in their piggy emergency kit.  More severe conditions that involve ulceration, swelling of the foot, and involvement of bones and tendons will require long and extensive medical or surgical management. Treatment can be difficult, and a very long and labour intensive road to recovery. Some treatment options depending on the severity of the condition may involve pain relief, antibiotics, cleaning and dressing of wounds by your veterinarian, and in some very severe cases amputation of the limb or euthanasia. How can I prevent my guinea pig from getting pododermatitis? The best way to prevent bumblefoot is to avoid the predisposing risk factors.  • Provide soft bedding and flooring surfaces. Vet bed or Ozzy liners are a great option. Avoid housing guinea pigs in cages with wire bottoms or hard and abrasive surfaces.  • Provide good husbandry and a clean and sanitary environment. Choose a bedding that wicks away moisture to prevent urine scalding and bacteria from entering any wounds.  • Provide a suitable diet, ensuring dietary Vitamin C requirements are met. Offer a complete diet consisting of good quality hay, good quality pellets high in Vitamin C, and a variety of fresh vegetables daily.  • Provide a large cage with ample floor space to encourage mobility and exercise. We highly recommend Ozzy cages as they are completely customisable, can be made to fit any space in your home and are easy to expand if your piggy numbers increase. They can also be easily fitted with soft bedding, and are easy to clean and maintain. Ozzy cages are made with your pets health in mind and tick all the boxes to keep their little feet happy and healthy. • Monitor your piggies weight and avoid obesity. It is important to encourage exercise, by both providing a large enclosure with plenty of floor space for zoomies and popcorning, as well as providing different toys and accessories to keep your piggies entertained.  Check out our YOUTUBE CHANNEL for more healthcare videos 

 What is Hypovitaminosis C (also known as Vitamin C Deficiency) Hypovitaminosis C, also known as Vitamin C deficiency, is a very common condition amongst guinea pigs caused by a lack of vitamin C, which in turn has many implications on normal bodily functions.  Most animals have the ability to synthesize their own vitamin C through different processes of the body, however guinea pigs, primates and even humans have developed a genetic mutation that prevents this conversion in the body from happening. This means that these species must obtain all of their vitamin C requirements through an external source – their diet.   What happens if guinea pigs don’t get enough vitamin C through their diet? Vitamin C is technically known as Ascorbic Acid which plays an essential role in the pathway of collagen formation in the body. Collagen is responsible for the formation of healthy skin, tendons, bones, dentin (teeth), and blood vessels, just to name a few. If the body does not have enough vitamin C, this leads to defective collagen which in turn predisposes to dental disease (loose teeth, rotation of teeth and overgrowth), poor skin quality and delayed wound healing, and fragile blood vessels. Hypovitaminosis C also leads to several metabolic abnormalities related to fat transport and vitamin absorption in the intestinal tract. Some signs that guinea pigs may have a vitamin C deficiency include lethargy, reduced appetite, painful chewing or grinding teeth, increased vocalisation, rough hair coat, poor wound healing, increased susceptibility to infections, lameness, swollen joints, poor weight gain, stunted growth, diarrhoea and in severe cases, death. How can I ensure my Guinea pigs are getting enough Vitamin C? As a general rule, healthy adult guinea pigs require approximately 10mg of vitamin C in their diet per day. Pregnant or young growing animals have a higher requirement for Vitamin C and should have approximately 30mg per kg each day. The best way to ensure your guinea pigs are meeting their daily requirements is providing them with a good quality pelleted diet with high levels of fortified vitamin C, and a variety of fresh vegetables rich in vitamin C.  You can also purchase Vitamin C treats that are a great daily snack for your piggies (and also good for them!). Guinea Pigs Australia only stocks healthy and veterinary recommended pelleted diets that contain high levels of vitamin C - Shop online today: https://guineapigsaustralia.com.au/collections/hay-food-and-snacks  Can I add Vitamin C supplements to my guinea pigs water?  You can, and there are definitely products on the market advertised for this, however as a rule we generally DO NOT recommend adding vitamin C to their water. This is for two main reasons: #1: Vitamin C is a very fragile vitamin and quickly degrades when exposed to light, heat and moisture, so even when adding high concentrations to the water, a lot will degrade before your guinea pig will ingest it, meaning they are not actually receiving as much useful vitamin as we would think. For this reason, the water also needs to be changed regularly with new vitamin C added to ensure it stays at suitable concentrations to meet daily requirements. #2: Guinea pigs can be very fussy when something changes in their environment – including the taste of their water! If you have a fussy piggy they may opt to avoid the strange tasting water, which can result in dehydration and a magnitude of other health conditions. How to choose the best pellets for my Guinea Pigs When choosing a pellet for your guinea pigs it is important to pick one of HIGH QUALITY that has  a vitamin C guarantee. Many types of pellets are advertised to ‘contain vitamin C’ however the actual concentration is not always known. It is also best to avoid ‘mixes’ as your guinea pig will often pick and choose, selectively feeding on the tastier parts which may not always contain great vitamin C content. As vitamin C is so fragile, it is also important to ensure your pellets are stored correctly as they will lose potency over time – it is recommended to store your pellets in a cool, dry environment and used within 90 days. READ MORE ABOUT CHOOSING THE BEST PELLETS HERE: VISIT THE PELLET STORE: Guinea Pigs Australia only stocks healthy and veterinary recommended pelleted diets that meet the optimal nutritional requirements. Burgess Excel is one of the leading small animal pellet brands and recommended by veterinarians all over the world!  It is important to feed your guinea pigs a variety of different vegetables each day, not only to meet their nutritional needs, but to also provide some fun and enrichment. See our Veggie-table (ha ha - get it?) below outlining some safe vegetables for guinea pigs to eat, as well as those rich in Vitamin C! 

Guinea pigs are very social creatures and love the company of their companions. In the wild guinea pigs are found in large herds, not only to enjoy each others company, but also for safety in numbers. In a wild herd guinea pigs will make high pitched squeaks to alert the herd of signs of danger, as well as use their numbers to their advantage by scattering in all directions and confusing predators. Our domesticated guinea pigs generally live in smaller herds, and also rely on human interaction as part of the social structure - but how do we keep numerous guinea pigs together whilst avoiding negative interactions within the social hierarchy? Well.... unfortunately, just like people, some guinea pigs just will not 'click' and get along, however we do have some handy tips and tricks to help you successfully introduce and bond new guinea pigs to create a  harmonious herd at home.  FUN FACT: In some countries it is illegal to only own one guinea pig in order to meet the animal welfare standards and meet their social requirements, so when one guinea pig ends up alone, it is ideal to try and find them a new friend. This can be a challenging process as not all guinea pigs will readily get along, and it does take some patience to successfully introduce a newcomer.  Housing more than one guinea pig together not only fulfills their social needs and companionship, but it also encourages more activity and exploration, which in turn has a number of health benefits including reduced risk of obesity and related health issues. Guinea pigs are often more extroverted with friends and going back to their core instincts - feeling 'safety in numbers'. Older guinea pigs also tend to sleep more often and bringing a younger friend into the mix does encourage more exercise and enrichment, and can improve their mental and physical health. Guinea pigs that are kept with others usually also develop a much more varied diet, as they try new and different foods with the support of their friends.  Selecting the right guinea pig for your herd:  One of the first steps when considering adding a new member to the herd is choosing the right guinea pig. As mentioned, not all guinea pigs will get along so it is important to plan ahead for the best chance of success, by taking into account your housing set up, floor space available, sex of your current piggies, and the temperament and personalities of your current piggies.  AGE: Housing younger and older piggies together is generally a good match as there is already a natural hierarchy established, which avoids some conflict  TEMPERAMENT: If you currently have a very outgoing guinea pig, it may be best to choose a more laid back buddy, to avoid territorial fights.  SEX: We strongly recommend keeping same sex herds to avoid unwanted pregnancies and territorial conflicts. Neutered boars will usually get along within a female herd. Female guinea pigs are generally easier to match and get along well, however in saying that conflicts can still occur when two strong female personalities come together. Housing male guinea pigs together can be a little bit more complex, however it is a common misconception that males cannot be housed together - this is FALSE! A bonded pair of male guinea pigs can live very happily together, just a little more time and patience may be required. If housing more than one male guinea pig together, we also recommend going up a cage size to allow them more space.  Check out our Ozzy Cage size guide below - we recommend going up a size if housing two boars together.  We highly recommend visiting your local guinea pig rescue when searching for a new companion or looking to add guinea pigs to your family. Some rescues may offer a trial period to ensure your guinea pigs get along prior to making the full commitment. Experienced volunteers at the rescue may also be able to help you find the right guinea pig temperament for your home.  How to introduce your piggies:   Bringing a new guinea pig home is a super exciting time and the first thing you will want to do is introduce them to your current piggies - however it is important to place any new arrivals into quarantine prior to coming into contact with your current herd - Guinea pigs will often try and hide any signs of illness for as long as possible, so we want to make sure they aren't bringing anything contagious into your current herd!  The next step is to clean their cage - we want to make the environment as neutral as possible and remove any residual scents or territorial markings. Make sure to disinfect and clean all surfaces in your cage, and provide fresh, clean bedding. We recommend allowing as much as space as possible, and adding in several hides so your piggies can retreat if needed.  We also recommend adding in two of everything including food and water to start with, reducing the instigator for any potential fights.  Setting up a neutral room in the house for example a bathroom that has no previous piggy scents, may also assist with first time introductions.  Be sure to supervise your piggies during their first introduction so you can readily step in if required.  Ron and Patrick - Bonded boars  Recently Ron and Patrick, two male guinea pigs, found themselves alone in a rescue. The owner of Cavy Angels Guinea Pig Rescue, Monique, assessed both boys and thought they had similar personalities that would get along well. They have become much loved ambassadors of the GPA team and are seen regularly on our social channels!  Watch here as they were first introduced and watch them through the bonding process.  Watch here to see how they are going now!   See more of the bonded GPA guinea pig herds on our socials:  Facebook           Instagram           Tik Tok           Youtube 

"Guinea Pigs are small - they don't need a lot of space!" - FALSE One of the first and most important parts of guinea pig ownership, is providing them with an appropriate cage or housing option. The average lifespan of indoor guinea pigs is also about 5-7 years, so it is important they have an enriching and stimulating environment as over this time they can easily become bored in a small space! Unfortunately many of the commercial cages marketed for guinea pigs, for example many of those found in pet stores, are not actually suitable to house our piggies and keep them happy and healthy. Guinea pigs may be small animals, however they need a LOT more space than people realise to zoom, popcorn and stretch their legs - and providing them with ample space to move also helps to avoid a tonne of serious health issues!  History of Guinea Pig Housing:  Going back 20, or even 10 years ago, we didn’t understand the full animal welfare needs of guinea pigs and the requirements needed for them to express their natural behaviours like they would in the wild. Thankfully animal welfare has come a long way since then, and guinea pigs have now become valued members of the family, with a lot more research into adequate welfare standards!  Previously, it was very common for guinea pigs to be housed full time in outdoor hutches, where they were susceptible to unpredictable environmental changes including both heat stress and cold stress, as well as predators such as dogs, cats, snakes and birds. Living outdoors generally means they had a lot less interaction with family members.  A lot of the older cages, and even many still on the market today, have wire bottom flooring, which we now know is very irritating to their little paws and predisposes to the development of foot ulcers and bumblefoot - which can in the severe cases be life threatening!   Even now a lot of cages available in pet shops do not meet the minimum size requirements for guinea pigs, hence why today I’m going to be focusing on choosing the right Ozzy Cage for your family and piggies.  Cage Setup Considerations So firstly, you need to know how many guinea pigs you are going to house, and what sex they are. As guinea pigs are such social animals it is always recommended to house a minimum of 2 together so they have a friend. FUN FACT: Switzerland has passed legislation making it illegal to only own 1 guinea pig, in order to fulfill their requirements for social interactions.  Generally, if you are going to house two or more male guinea pigs together your cage size should be a touch larger to give them some more space. Boars especially can be extremely territorial and for the safety of your guinea pigs should have enough space to have “time out” from each other to prevent fighting and injuries.  The great thing however about Ozzy cages, is that if you ever get more guinea pigs or change combinations, it’s easy to expand your cage either in length or by adding multiple levels.   Minimum Cage Size: The area for our critters must be as spacious as possible. Cavies need at least 70 square centimetres of cage space each to be happy and healthy. Male guinea pigs need even MORE room - at least 1 square metre of cage space each, to prevent fights over territory. See our chart below for ideal cage size vs. how many piggies you have.  Multi-Level Cages: Cages with multiple levels can be beneficial as long as they provide safe, easy access between levels with ample floor space. These cages should still meet the minimum floor space requirements, but the extra levels can provide additional enrichment and exploration opportunities. ⚠️ WARNING: A lot of 'vertical style' cages are marketed for guinea pigs but they are not suitable! They often have steep, short ramps and very limited area for your piggies to move around. The height of these levels are also dangerous for guinea pigs if they fall. While these cages are great for mice and rats that can climb, they are unsafe and unsuitable for guinea pigs. Ozzy cages have developed safe ramps specifically designed for the body shape and mobility of guinea pigs in mind - these ramps are not excessively steep, are safe and sturdy, have carpet grip and have a cover add on to prevent the risk of any accidents. Shop our Ozzy Ramps here.    Benefits of large cages and floor space:  Ability to express natural behaviours: Guinea pigs need a large area to explore, popcorn, rumblestrutt, and run laps, and this requires a certain degree of space. They should be able to exhibit and effectively communicate with one another without having objects or walls preventing this or getting in the way.  Exercise: Larger cages allow your pets to move around freely, promoting exercise, preventing obesity, and improving overall health.  Mental Stimulation: A larger cage provides more opportunities for mental stimulation through exploration, hiding spots, and different areas to investigate, reducing boredom and encouraging natural behaviors! Social Interaction:  Larger enclosures can accommodate critters social nature, allowing for more harmonious interactions and reducing fights. Improved Health: Critters who receive regular exercise are less prone to obesity related issues such as liver, heart and respiratory distress and disease. Boars will also be less prone to developing impaction problems.  Enrichment: You can add various toys, tunnels, platforms, and hideouts in a larger space, enhancing the environment and encouraging natural behaviors like foraging and exploring. Check out our store for lots of playtime goodies! Easier Maintenance: Believe it or not, a larger cage often means easier and less frequent cleaning as poops are more dispersed! It can also be easier to spot clean and maintain hygiene in a larger space. Guinea pigs will commonly poop in the corners of the cage, which means they aren't left to sit in their faeces and can move away to different areas for living and napping.  Companionship: Guinea pigs are social animals and should ideally be kept in pairs or small groups. Having more than one guinea pig means they’ll need more space to interact and play, which is a consideration when setting up their living area. Read more on piggy companionship here. Enjoy 10% off our entire Ozzy C&C Cage collection with our special discount code OZZYBLOG10 : https://guineapigsaustralia.com.au/pages/ozzy-c-c-cages Watch here to find out all you need to know about selecting the right OZZY CAGE for you and your piggies! 

Guinea pigs are hosts to a number of different parasites, some of which are normal commensals on the skin of healthy guinea pigs, some cause significant health issues, and others are even transferrable to humans (known as zoonotic)! Any guinea pig of any age or sex can contract parasites. Juvenile or young guinea pigs with an underdeveloped immune system, or those that are immunocompromised due to underlying illness, are at greater risk of developing clinical disease from parasite burdens. Conditions that cause excess stress such as overcrowding, poor hygiene and unsanitary living arrangements, poor ventilation, pregnancy and lactation, inappropriate diet, hypovitaminosis C (low vitamin C), and various medications or illness can also predispose to clinical disease of parasites. In order to prevent parasite burdens in your piggie herd, we recommend quarantining any new guinea pigs that are being added to your family, and monitoring them for any signs of illness before introducing them to your current herd. It is important to keep a clean and sanitary environment, provide ample space to move around, and supply an adequate and nutritious diet which includes vitamin C supplementation (high quality pellets and fresh vegetables daily). Visit our Care Guide for a list of high vitamin C vegetables.  Below are some of the most common parasites that affect our companion guinea pigs in Australia: Mites:  There are two primary species of mites that are hosted by guinea pigs, Demodex caviae and Trixacarus caviae. Demodex are commensal mites that inhabit the skin of many normal and healthy mammalian species. Most of the time the host animals are asymptomatic and the mites do not cause an issue, however they have the potential to become pathogenic during periods of stress or in animals that are unwell or immunocompromised. Trixacarus caviae are the most common type of parasitic condition of guinea pigs, and regularly display signs of clinical disease. Outbreaks are precipitated by stressful events, and can spread very quickly throughout a herd either by direct contact with infected guinea pigs or through contact with communal objects and bedding. Mites are extremely small parasites and live burrowed underneath the skin and within the hair follicles, so are rarely seen with the naked eye. Guinea pigs that are infested with mites will become extremely itchy and irritated, spending a lot of time scratching, chewing or rubbing their body on objects. Due to excessive scratching and self-trauma, guinea pigs will often develop secondary wounds and excoriations of their skin, resulting in fur loss, wounds, scabs and crusts, some of which may bleed. Secondary bacterial infection is a common sequalae to these lesions. Lesions normally start around the head/neck region, however if not treated will gradually spread over the back and down the legs. Some guinea pigs that are severely impacted, may develop seizure like behaviour especially when touched, which can be life threatening and require emergency veterinary care. Treatment of mites usually involves confirmative diagnosis by your veterinarian who will likely perform a skin scraping test and identify the mites underneath the microscope. Your veterinarian will then prescribe topical, injectable or oral medications to treat the mite infestation, as well as any other secondary conditions that have developed such as bacterial infections, seizures, or underlying illnesses causing immunocompromise.  If your guinea pig is suspected to have mites, it is important not to wash them as this will cause the mites to burrow further underneath the skin, worsening the condition.   Ringworm: Ringworm, unlike the name suggests, is not a worm at all, but in fact, a fungal infection of the skin. Ringworm is a zoonotic disease, meaning it can be spread to humans, and care should be taken to wear gloves and perform good hygiene practices when handling infected guinea pigs. ‘Ringworm’ is the common name given to fungal species known as Dermatophytes. These fungal spores are readily found in the environment, and are opportunistic pathogens usually only causing illness in young or immunocompromised animals. Animals that are experiencing stress due to underlying illness, immunosuppression, overcrowding, poor sanitary environment, poor nutrition, pregnancy or parasite burdens are at greater risk of displaying clinical signs of ringworm. Guinea pigs that have ringworm usually have one or more round, scaly, hairless lesions over their body, commonly near the eyes, ears and nose (however can be anywhere over the body). One of the most important aspects in treating and reducing the spread of ringworm is to reduce the number of infectious spores and fur in the environment. This involves thoroughly cleaning and disinfecting all parts of the housing environment, cleaning all bedding, and quarantining any affected animals. Some lesions will be self limiting and resolve on their own, however more severely impacted guinea pigs may require topical or systemic therapy to get on top of the infection. Malaseb shampoo is a great medicated pet shampoo available over the counter and can be used to treat fungal infections such as ringworm. It is important to note that Malaseb shampoo requires a 10 minute contact time before being rinsed off to effectively kill the fungal spores, and should be used about twice a week until the infection has cleared. Some guinea pigs can become stressed during bath time and get hypothermic (cold) during the 10 minute contact time whilst wet, so bathing guinea pigs is not always recommended. Occasionally systemic anti-fungals are required which can be prescribed by your veterinarian.    Image credit: Guinea Lynx / Lindsaymarie. Worms: Intestinal worms are very uncommon in guinea pigs, and they do not require regular worming like many other domesticated companion animals such as cats and dogs. Worming for intestinal parasites is generally only recommended if a parasite burden has been confirmed by your veterinarian, which can be done via a simple faecal test identifying the presence of worm eggs. If you suspect your guinea pig has worms or has signs of diarrhoea or GIT upset, we recommend collecting some poop pellets and booking a veterinary consultation.   Protozoa: Another family of parasites that inhabit the gastrointestinal tract of guinea pigs are protozoa – these are small living organisms that may live undetected, but when under stress, can cause severe illness. Young animals are most at risk of becoming unwell due to these parasites, and are commonly infected from a young age when an asymptomatic sow sheds the parasites into the environment for her babies to contract. One of the most common and pathogenic species of protozoa in guinea pigs is Eimeria cavia, and causes a disease commonly known as ‘Coccidiosis’. Eimeria species are transmitted via the faecal-oral route, meaning the organisms are shed in guinea pig poop, which is then ingested by another guinea pig. Some animals will remain asymptomatic, however others will develop signs of diarrhoea, dehydration, lethargy, weight loss, anorexia, and in severe cases, death. If you notice any of the above clinical signs in your guinea pigs, especially diarrhoea, we recommend collecting a faecal sample and booking a consultation with your veterinarian. Your vet will be able to perform a simple test on the faeces and prescribe special medication to kill the parasites. We recommend testing or treating each guinea pig that has come into contact with a positive animal as healthy guinea pigs are able to shed the organisms infecting those more vulnerable.

The age old question – should guinea pigs be kept indoors or outdoors? Historically guinea pigs were primarily outdoor pets, kept in hutches or cages all throughout the year. In most recent times however, guinea pigs just like dogs and other companion animals, have become more intimate family members and welcomed more readily into the home.   Guinea pigs definitely benefit from a combination of inside and outside time, and a change of scenery between the two can be both enriching and engaging for our curious critters – but which one is the best for option for their more permanent housing? Indoor housing There really are minimal disadvantages to indoor housing, as it generally provides a safe, temperature controlled and predator free environment for your piggies to live. Not only do they tend to live longer lives by reducing access to these potentially life threatening risks, but it also increases the bond between humans and guinea pigs as they spend more time with and around the family. Spending more time with your piggies, handling them and watching them in their natural environment will also allow you to pick up on any abnormalities or signs of illness earlier, which could also save your piggies life.   The main disadvantage most people report for keeping their piggies indoors is mess and odour – both of which can be easily managed and prevented. We highly recommend using an Ozzy Hay sack, Wheek Wagon or Kitchenette to help keep your piggies hay clean and contained, and what’s more fun than choosing an adorable bowl to place their pellets and veggies in?! As any piggy parent knows, our favourite furry critters are little poop and pee machines! So it doesn’t take long for an odour to develop if their cages are not maintained appropriately. Ultimately, the choice of bedding you choose and the frequency in which you clean your cage is going to make all the difference. We highly recommend purchasing a good quality and absorbent bedding that wicks away moisture and odour, as well as something that is easy to clean and change. Personally after using many different types of bedding in the past, I have found the *NEW* Ozzy Cage Liners to be one of the most efficient and easiest beddings to manage – shake off the poops, pop it in the washing machine and hang on the line for an hour, and it is back in the piggies cage in no time! So quick and easy, which allows me to clean their cage more frequently without needing to allow an hour or more for the process. Outdoor Housing As mentioned above, allowing your guinea pigs some time outdoors can be a very enriching and exciting experience for them, with a change of scenery, fresh grass to nibble on and soaking up that vitamin D, what’s not to love? Unfortunately many guinea pigs have met their peril outdoors with access to so many uncontrollable risks and we highly recommend supervised outdoor time only to mitigate these threats. One of the biggest threats our guinea pigs suffer outdoors is the ever changing weather conditions and climate. They are very sensitive creatures, and quite susceptible to both the extreme heat and extreme cold. As we know the weather can change from one extreme to another within a matter of hours, with unexpected rain, hail, snow, or heatwaves – putting our piggies lives at risk. Heat stroke is one of the most common silent killers of guinea pigs, and is unfortunately most common in those kept outdoors, often occurring when the shade moves throughout the day and guinea pigs are left exposed to direct heat and sunlight. Likewise, particularly in the evenings, temperatures can drop quite significantly, affecting our piggies core body temperature resulting in hypothermia and death. Outdoor guinea pigs are also threatened by many different predators they wouldn’t normally come across inside the home such as wild snakes or carnivorous birds such as hawks and birds of prey. There is also the risk of stray cats and dogs entering the yard and attacking the piggies, either physically harming them or psychologically causing significant stress. In conclusion After assessing the many benefits and risks associated with each type of housing, our conclusion is strongly in support of indoor housing options for guinea pigs, in combination with supervised outside time. Guinea pigs who are housed indoors are generally more bonded to their owners, receive medical attention in a more timely manner, and have a significantly reduced mortality rate in regards to heatstroke, hypothermia and predator attacks. Use code BLOG10 for 10% off Ozzy Cage Accessories for your indoor cage 🏠 Check out our social media channels for some more cage design inspo!  Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JitMYBUKM34 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/guineapigsaus Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/guineapigsaustralia/ Tik Tok: https://www.tiktok.com/@guineapigs_australia

As our guinea pigs grow and move through different developmental stages, their nutritional requirements also grow and change with them. Bunny Nature has developed specially formulated pellets for every life stage, right through from babies all the way to our senior piggies, ensuring their nutritional needs are met at each stage throughout their lifetime.  The Bunny Nature pellet range consists of the following: Guinea Pig Dream YOUNG Guinea Pig Dream BASIC  Guinea Pig Dream SENIOR  Guinea Pig Dream SHUTTLE Why we LOVE Bunny Nature Pellets:    100% Plant Based with no nasties! Bunny Nature pellets are 100% natural and plant based, containing over 42 different types of biodiverse plants, focusing on promoting natural forages and ingredients that guinea pigs would usually graze on in the wild. Each recipe also includes a number of plants that are known to grow in the pastures of South America - the home of guinea pigs, including quinoa, amaranth, chokeberries and maca. Bunny Nature pellets are a completely balanced diet and full of goodness and high quality ingredients, with no added preservatives, colours, flavour enhancers, sugar, molasses or other nasties!  Contains high levels of stabilised Vitamin C - Essential for Guinea Pig Health  Guinea pigs are one of few species that are unable to metabolise their own vitamin C, and therefore solely rely on dietary intake to reach their daily requirements. A good quality pellet with high stabilised vitamin C content, along with plenty of fresh vegetables high in Vitamin C is the best way for guinea pigs to receive their intake. Vitamin C is essential for the formation of collagen fibres, which is ultimately responsible for skin, tendons, bone, dentin and vascular health. Vitamin C also plays a vital role in fatty acid transport, bile acid formation and the synthesis of Vitamin D and other amino acids, so is exceptionally important for good piggy health.  Bunny nature pellets contain over 600mg of stabilised Vitamin C, and are ranked among the highest quality pellets available in Australia.  Trimello Shaped Pellet for optimal dental health and digestion One of the most unique characteristics of Bunny Nature Pellets is their Trimello shape - designed specifically to optimise dental health and prevent future dental disease. The size and shape of each pellet has been designed with each specific species age, jaw anatomy and jaw motility in mind, for optimal tooth wear.  Each pellet contains 3 different fibre lengths, which not only promotes extended chewing time and increased tooth abrasion, but also promotes fibre absorption throughout transit of the intestinal tract.    What is Bunny Nature SHUTTLE? Bunny Nature Shuttle is the perfect transition diet, and one of the only of it's kind on the market! Changing diets can be stressful for guinea pigs, not only due to the sudden palatability change, but sudden change of fibre and nutrients being absorbed by the digestive tract. It is always recommended to transition any kind of diet gradually over time - but Bunny Nature Shuttle is specifically designed to make this step a breeze, as well as reducing the risk of digestive issues in your piggies throughout the transition period. Start by offering Bunny Nature shuttle to your guinea pigs, before moving over to the Guinea Pig Dream range.  Benefits of Guinea Pig Dream SENIOR:  As our piggies get older they not only have different nutritional needs but are also more prone to various different health conditions, so it is imperative to keep them in tip-top shape with a healthy diet. There are a variety of diets on the market that are formulated for young and adult guinea pigs, but there is limited options for our senior piggies - which is where Bunny Nature stands above the rest.  The senior pellets not only contain all the beneficial qualities of the Basic Dream range, but contains additional ingredients to give our senior piggies over 5years old an additional boost! Contains:  Ginseng and Ginko - Boosts vitality, supports the immune system, and improves circulation and joint health.  Additional Vitamin C  Indian frankincense - Contributes to cognitive function in older pets.  Want to learn more?  You can shop the Bunny Nature Range online at Guinea Pigs Australia.  Find us on Facebook  Visit the Bunny Nature website 

Care For Your Senior Guinea Pigs Did you know the average life-span of a domestic guinea pig is about 5-7 years old? However some guinea pigs have been known to live much longer, with the oldest recorded age being almost 15 years?!! Over the years the average lifespan has been slowly increasing due to a higher education of owners, increased veterinary knowledge and care, and guinea pigs becoming beloved members of the household with indoor housing options.  As our guinea pigs get older, just like us, they need a little extra care. Read on below to find out what additional things we can do to improve the quality of life for our aging piggies to allow them to live long, happy and comfortable senior years.  Regular Physical Exam As our piggies get older, the statistics become higher for health issues to arise - therefore it is important to keep a close eye and observe our piggies behavior daily to be alerted for any changes. If you notice your piggy is not eating or eating less than normal, is more lethargic or not moving as much as normal, or is not toileting as per normal, veterinary care should be sought. It is also important to check for any lumps and bumps, lameness, sores or wounds, drooling, and anything else that appears abnormal.  Join our resident veterinarian Dr Sam as she demonstrates how to perform a health check on your guinea pigs at home: WATCH OUR VIDEO HERE: How to perform a health check on your guinea pig Soft Bedding One of the most common health conditions that will affect most of our senior piggies at some point, is arthritis (inflammation of the joints). It most commonly affects the hindlimbs first, especially the stifles (knees) and hips. When guinea pigs develop arthritis or sore joints, they tend to not be as active as they used to be, sleep more, and spend more time in one area. You may also notice them move or hop around their cage with an abnormal gait. Due to reduced mobility, they will be more likely to develop other secondary conditions such as pododermatitis (bumblefoot), urinary scalding or urinary tract infections, and mild dehydration or nutritional deficiencies.  If you suspect your guinea pig may be developing arthritis we highly recommend a veterinary consultation to discuss pain relief medications.  At home, we recommended providing your guinea pigs with a soft, padded and moisture wicking bedding - this will not only reduce the pressure on their inflamed joints, but reduce the prevalence of pododermatitis and secondary foot or urinary tract infections. Ozzy Vet bed is one of the most superior beddings available for senior piggies as it is super soft and padded with lots of 'give' to reduce pressure on joints. As you can see, Ozzy vet bed adds many centimeters of padding when compared to other fleece liners or toggle mats, so it is easy to see the many benefits it provides.     SHOP OZZY VETBED HERE: guineapigsaustralia.com.au Your guinea pigs will also appreciate some soft and comfy beds for sleeping on - we highly recommend our soft fleece lined snuggle cups, cozy cottage or our personal favourite, the cuddly carrot bed! Senior Diet and Supplements  Diet is a huge contributor to living a long and healthy life, and there are a few diets on the market formulated specifically for our senior piggies. These diets include ingredients such as ginger root, ginseng, ginkgo, chamomile, tumeric and frankincense, which help with cognitive function, circulation and joint health and inflammation in older guinea pigs.  We also recommended the addition of Vitamin C supplementation and Glucosamine supplements.  CHECK OUT OUR RANGE OF SENIOR GUINEA PIG PELLETS HERE: Bunny Nature Guinea Pig Dream Senior Oxbow Essentials Senior Guinea Pig Food  Vitamin C Including vitamin C in your guinea pigs diet is extremely important during all life stages, as unlike many other mammals, guinea pigs cannot make and convert their own vitamin C and rely 100% on their dietary intake. Vitamin C is very important for healthy skin, tendons, bones, teeth, blood vessels, as well as a strong immune system. There are a number of great quality pelleted diets available that contain high concentrations of vitamin C, such as Burgess Excel , as well as supplement treats such as Oxbow Vitamin C Support treats. A variety of fresh vegetables high in vitamin C should also be added to your guinea pigs diet daily.  WATCH OUR VIDEO ON VITAMIN C HERE Additional Water Points  When our piggies are not feeling well, or have developed some arthritis reducing their mobility, they are at higher risk of mild dehydration if they are not reaching their water points as frequently. We recommend adding multiple water points around your cage to ensure our piggies always have access to fresh water.  Burgess Dual Care As our piggies get older, they are unfortunately more likely to run into various health conditions, and therefore may require some additional nutritional support to keep their immune system in tip top shape. Burgess Dual Care is a must-have product to have on hand as a guinea pig owner, especially for our senior piggies as you never know when you may need it! When guinea pigs are unwell or in pain they will often feel too unwell to eat, which in turn can have catastrophic effects as their gastrointestinal system can stop moving and bloat can develop within hours of inappetence. The great thing about Burgess Dual Care is it's high in fibre to support gastrointestinal function, and can be fed as either nuggets OR dissolved into a liquid for assisted syringe feeding. It also contains high levels of protected Vitamin C, magnesium and Tryptophan to support the body during times of stress.  Buy Burgess Dual Care here Watch our video on Assist feeding your Guinea pig here    Veterinary check-up  Senior piggies should be getting an annual check-up with their local cavy-savvy veterinarian. Your vet will be able to perform a thorough assessment and may pick up on any early signs of aging, which may include arthritis, dental disease, lumps and bumps or pododermatitis for example. Your vet will also be able to provide your piggy with safe analgesia to make them more comfortable, as well as medications that can reduce the progression of arthritis in the early stages.   

This week I went on a mission – to find the best pellets on the Australian market for our beloved guinea pigs. I am just like you (an Aussie fur-parent) who often walks into a pet shop or supermarket, and feels overwhelmed by all the different options available on the shelf! Ask yourself, have you ever picked up a bag of piggy pellets, looked at the nutritional information and ingredients on the back, become very confused and unsure, and put the bag back down? Does the one with the bright colours, cute photo on the front, or variety of textures help decide which one makes it home? We all want what is best for our piggies, providing them with all the nutrients they need to keep them happy and healthy, whilst also keeping it tasty and affordable. Let’s go and have a look at the options available in my local area and break down Guinea Pig Nutrition.   LET’S START WITH SOME ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY Guinea pigs are herbivourous animals with a very complex gastrointestinal system. They are one of the few animals who are Hindgut fermenters, which means most of their digestion occurs in the lower part of their digestive tract known as the caecum and colon, as opposed to the stomach and small intestine like many other species - Other animals who are also hindgut fermenters, include rabbits, horses, koala’s and even rhino’s! The reason why digestion occurs in the hindgut of these animals, is due to the exceptionally high fibre content of their diet – generally speaking, grains and sugars are digested by the enzymes in the foregut (stomach and small intestine) and fibre such as grass and hay is fermented by the enzymes located in the hindgut (caecum and colon). Understanding the basic anatomy and physiology of our guinea pigs is really important when considering what food we need to provide them for their optimal nutrition and digestion! WHAT SHOULD I BE FEEDING MY GUINEA PIG? Generally speaking, about 70-90% of a guinea pigs diet should be hay or grass, providing them with a large amount of fibre. We always recommend feeding a hay with long strands as opposed to chopped chaff as the natural chewing motion guinea pigs will do whilst eating the longer strands will aid in keeping their teeth worn to an appropriate length and avoid overgrowth and long term dental disease. Approximately 10-20%  should consist of fresh and leafy vegetables which supplies a large portion of their vitamins and minerals (check out our veggie table here). The remaining 5-10% of their diet should consist of a good quality pellet to supplement additional fibre and nutrients, and finally a small portion <5% of their diet can contain treats and fruits. THE PELLET CONTENDERS: First off I visited two of my local supermarkets to have a look at their range. To be honest, the range of small pet food was very limited, with a total of 3 choices: BLACK AND GOLD GUINEA PIG AND RABBIT MIX DUX BREEDERS RABBIT AND GUINEA PIG MEAL PETERS FORAGERS FEAST Next I visited one of our local large chain pet shop stores. Their range was much broader and included the following brands: OXBOW ESSENTIALS ADULT GUINEA PIG FOOD SCIENCE SELECTIVE ADULT GUINEA PIG FOOD PECKISH GUINEA PIG AND RABBIT PELLETS VETAFARM CAVY ORIGINS WATSON AND WILLIAMS GUINEA PIG AND RABBIT PELLETS And finally I wanted to add in an additional three types of popular pellet brands that are available for purchase online or through select retailers: BURGESS EXCEL INDOOR GUINEA PIG PELLETS BUNNY NATURE DREAM - ADULT JACK RABBIT RABBIT AND GUINEA PIG PET MIX WHAT WE NOTICE AT A FIRST GLANCE When we look at choosing a pellet, the first and easiest thing to look for is what the food actually contains and looks like – as we know guinea pigs require high fibre in their diets, so if we see a food full of seeds and grains, this is an immediate no-no!!! These diets are often very high in fats, sugars and carbohydrates, and lack a lot of the important nutrients including fibre and vitamins that guinea pigs require for helathy digestion. High fat diets can also lead to obesity and a menagerie of other health conditions including cardiac or respiratory disease, urinary stones, bumblefoot and diabetes to name a few. WHAT IS SELECTIVE FEEDING? Selective feeding is when guinea pigs are offered a ‘mix’ type of food, which contains numerous different textures and ingredients, such as hay, lucerne, pellets, seeds, treats, and other ‘foraging’ type ingredients. When offered foods like this, guinea pigs (like us) will tend to pick out their favourite bits and the more tasty parts, leaving the less desirable ingredients behind. Unfortunately the ‘tasty’ parts are often higher in fat and sugar, and can often lead to various nutritional deficiencies as they are potentially leaving behind a lot of the important and more nutritional parts. Ideally we want a pelleted diet where each pellet is uniform in size and texture, to ensure our guinea pigs are not selective feeding, and therefore receiving a balanced diet and preventing nutritional deficiencies. WHAT SPECIES IS THE FOOD MARKETED TO? As mentioned above, guinea pigs have a very complex digestive tract and should be provided with a food specifically formulated for them. One of the big things I noticed with the various pellet brands is a lot of them were marketed to BOTH guinea pigs and rabbits (some of which even said they were suitable for chickens and goats as well!). Even though guinea pigs and rabbits are often grouped together as similar animals and are both hindgut fermenters, they are still completely different species, and do have very different nutritional requirements. We definitely want to choose a food that has been specifically formulated for guinea pigs with their individual species specific (and even age specific) nutritional needs in mind. Foods that are marketed to multiple species is definitely not recommended.   LET’S LOOK AT THE NUTRITIONAL GUARANTEE The next thing we need to do is turn the bag over and have a look at the nutritional analysis provided. Most of the higher quality foods will have a very detailed nutritional analysis, outlining the concentration of each nutrient and ingredient, including fibre, protein, fat, calcium, phosphorous, and various vitamins including Vitamin C.   A major red flag I noticed on a lot of the different foods, was the clause ‘contains one or more of the following ingredients’, ‘may contain the following ingredients’, or ‘ingredients vary upon seasonal availability’. A lot of these foods also don’t provide as detailed of an analysis. This is extremely concerning as it means that the manufacturing of these foods and the ingredients included vary upon what is likely the cheapest and most available at the time of processing – meaning that the nutritional analysis of each bag varies each time, you will not be getting the same product each time, and there are no guarantees that certain concentrations of vitamins and minerals are provided due to the ever changing ingredients. Manufacturing food using seasonally available ingredients generally reduces the purchase cost and makes a more affordable product for the consumer, and we can also see why those with a guaranteed nutritional analysis are slightly more expensive due to using the same recipe of ingredients each time, regardless of season and manufacturing expenses. THE INGREDIENT LIST Now lets turn our attention to the actual ingredients listed. Generally speaking, what we are looking for is for the first few ingredients listed to be hay or grass based and high in fibre.  What we don’t want is food that primarily contains a high cereal/grain/seed based diet. VITAMIN C One of the interesting nutritional facts that is specific to guinea pigs, is like humans, they are unable to make their own Vitamin C, therefore relying 100% on dietary supplementation. Guinea pigs receive most of their vitamin C through fresh vegetables and pellets. It’s important to note that Vitamin C is a very fragile vitamin and can be easily destroyed by heat, light and oxygen, and deteriorate over time, so it is important to store your pellets correctly. Vitamin C is responsible for healthy skin, bones, teeth, tendons, ligaments, blood vessels and wound healing, and a deficiency could have catastrophic health effects and a condition known as ‘scurvy’. We want to ensure the pellet we choose contains vitamin C, and specifically outlines the minimum amount present. THE VERDICT After assessing all of the above aspects, I created a table to compare all of the above nutritional information, and there were a few stand out brands. The below brands all contain a high fibre, uniform pellet to prevent selective feeding and nutritional deficiencies, have a guaranteed analysis, and additional Vitamin C and added other vitamins and minerals.  Burgess Excel pellets  Bunny Nature dream Vetafarm Origins  Oxbow Essentials I hope this will help you to choose the best pellets for your piggies, and reduce some confusion next time you are faced with a shelf full of overwhelming variety!   

In 2023 Guinea Pigs Australia Shop launched our very own exclusive Ozzy Fleece Cage Liner range - With 3 adorable piggy pattern prints designed by Australian Artist, Katy Harris. Well this year in 2024 we are super excited to launch our BRAND NEW range of Ozzy Cage Accessories, to fully kit out your piggy palace. These accessories will be sure to be on the wish lists of many piggy parents and we are so excited to officially share the new range with you! Cosy Cottage: The cozy cottage is probably my personal favourite accessory of the range, it is super cute and I can't go past the peek-a-boo window! Super cute design, available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints Soft pattern fleece on the outside Super fluffy and soft on the inside Machine washable Cavy Condo: Our next 'House' accessory is our very own Cavy Condo! This is a great addition if you want to break up the fleece colours or add a boho type feel to your piggies home.  Made from piggy safe wooden material  Safe for chewing and provides enrichment and mental stimulation Spacious inside area  Adorable front window for light, airflow, and 'peeking out'  Mostly enclosed, providing a safe and secure area for your piggies to rest Cuddle Cup: Available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints  Adorable soft fleece on the outside  Super fluffy and cosy on the inside  Machine washable  Can use as a lap cup for couch cuddles  Safer option for transporting piggies when not in their cage  Hay Sack for C&C Cages This accessory is not only adorable, but also very practical! Hay is a vital part of a guinea pigs diet, however it can be very messy at times! The hay sack is a gamechanger addition to your Ozzy Cage Available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints  Reduces wastage and saves you money on hay Velcro top to keep hay in and piggies out. Easy and fast to open and refill  Two large, strong clips to easily hang on your cage Keeps hay clean and reduces urine and faecal contamination Cleaner, organised and stylish    Little Jack Horner Corner Tent  Available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints  Fun enrichment with dangling fleece forest - perfect for 'hide-and-squeek!' Soft fleece skirt  Machine washable  Comes with 3 corner clips for easy set up  Provides a hiding or covered sleeping space   Snuggle Sack Available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints   Soft and warm Super thick lining keeps the entrance open Machine washable  Perfect for a safe and secure sleeping nook  Posy Play Tent: Who doesn't want a piggy tee-pee?  Made with non-toxic, piggy safe materials Adorable floral design Comes with a matching pillow insert  Machine washable pillow  Soft and comfortable for nap time Cosy Tunnel: 'T' is for TUNNEL! Who doesn't love an adorable tunnel to zoom through and sleep in! Available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints   Super thick lining to prevent any sagging  Machine washable  Great to hide in, sleep in or zoom through!  Lap of Luxury Pad Perfect lap pad for cuddle time with the hoomans! Safer option for children handling piggies  Helps to keep you clean from wee's and poops during cuddle time Perfect to place in cage corners to reduce mess and contamination Available in all 3 exclusive piggy prints   Machine washable  Made with soft fleece and comfy padding  Cosy Caravan:  Adorable carrot design resembling a fan favourite snack Removable matching pillow insert  Washable materials  Large opening for all size piggies  Mostly covered for a safe and secure sleeping and hiding spot We can't wait to see your piggies enjoying their new accessories! 

1. Guinea pigs have four toes on their front paws, but only three on their hind paws, making 14 toes in total. Some guinea pigs may be born with additional toes, which is known as 'polydactyly'.  2. Unlike many young mammals, baby guinea pigs are actually born with teeth and can eat solid foods almost immediately after birth.  3. When guinea pigs are happy they are known to jump in the air, twist their body up to 90 degrees and kick their legs out to the side - this is known as 'popcorning' (like corn kernels bouncing around in a hot pan).  4. In 2013 a handmade miniature suit of chain mail armour designed for a guinea pig was auctioned on EBAY with a winning bid of $24,300 after significant media attention. Unfortunately the buyer never paid up and the armour was re-auctioned, where it sold for $2000, which was donated to Metropolitan Guinea pig Rescue.  5. Guinea pigs have 20 teeth in total, and their teeth never stop growing! This is one of the reasons why guinea pigs require high fibre diets such as long grassy hay to help keep their teeth worn down.  6. Guinea pigs are not related to pigs at all. They are part of the 'Caviidae' family, which is made up of rodents. The scientific name for guinea pigs is 'Cavia porcellus', which means 'little pig' in latin.  7. Guinea pigs have more bones in their body than humans! Guinea pigs have a total of 258 bones, whereas humans only have 206 bones.  8. The closest relative to the guinea pig is the Capybara!  Image: Britannica   9. Guinea pigs are fast learners, and even have the ability to learn different tricks!  10. The oldest guinea pig on record lived over 14 years and 10mths old.   

Guinea pigs have been around for a long time, their wild ancestors Cavia tschudii are native to the Andean mountain region. Guinea pigs are believed to have been first domesticated around 5000 B.C. and were kept as both pets and bred for meat. Since then, guinea pigs have become beloved household pets all over the world, and through various selective breeding practices many new breeds, coat types and markings have been established. Coat types There are 5 main coat types: Smooth Long haired Rough Hairless Satin Breeds American    The American guinea pig is one of the most common and popular breeds kept as pets around the world. They are the oldest domesticated breed of guinea pig, and are known for their low maintenance and great temperament – perfect for new piggy parents! They have a short, smooth coat and come in a variety of colours and markings. White Crested The white crested guinea pig is very similar to the American guinea pig, with a short smooth coat in a variety of colours. They are characterised by a single white crest (also known as a rosette) on the top of their head.  Abyssinian Abyssinian guinea pigs are one of the most popular household breeds – they are known for their messy hair do that sticks up in every direction, with multiple rosettes of fur over their body. Abyssinian guinea pigs have a reasonably low maintenance coat and are usually quite vocal and inquisitive guinea pigs, making them great pets. Rex The Rex is the largest breed of guinea pig, weighing up to 1.4kg and growing up to a whopping 45cm in length! They get their name from their specific coat type, similar to other mammals such as the Rex rabbit or Devon Rex cat. Their coat is generally quite short and low maintenance, with a wiry, fuzzy appearance and wool like texture. Rex guinea pigs lack guard hairs, so instead their hair stands up on its end to protect them against water and moisture. Rex guinea pigs are also known for their large, droopy ears – making them even more adorable! Texel Texel guinea pigs are a reasonably new breed, and is a cross between a Rex and Silkie guinea pig. They are known for their medium to long length wavy hair coat. Due to their hair length texel guinea pigs are higher maintenance to care for and require regular grooming. The hair around their face is generally shorter than that of the rest of their body. Silkie / Sheltie Silkie guinea pigs, also known as Shelties, are a much loved long hair breed of guinea pig, however does require a high level of maintenance and commitment to keep their coat healthy and luscious. Silkie’s are characterised from other long hair breeds, as their coat is smooth and silkie (hence the name) and their hair only grows backwards. Peruvian Peruvian guinea pigs, similar to silkie’s are a much loved long hair breed. They have a very long coat, which when cared for correctly can grow up to 2 feet! They have smooth, straight fur which parts down the middle with 2 rosettes, one on top of their head and another over their rump. Peruvian guinea pigs differ from the silkie as their hair changes direction at their rosette and can grow forward over their face. Peruvian guinea pigs are one of the highest maintenance guinea pigs and require a lot of time dedicated to grooming. Coronet Coronet guinea pigs are a cross between a silkie and crested guinea pig. They have smooth long hair that requires regular grooming and maintenance, with a characteristic single rosette on top of their head. They also come in many colours and markings. Sheba The Sheba, or otherwise affectionately known as the ‘Sheba Mini-Yak’ is a cross between an Abyssinian and Peruvian guinea pig – first bred in Australia! Although it is not an official breed yet, it is fast becoming a much loved pet with their wild ‘bed hair’. They have the most un-tamed hair of all guinea pig breeds as it is known to stick out in every direction, often with the Peruvian ‘quiff’ at the front. Sheba guinea pigs are deemed to be high maintenance as they do require regular grooming and trimming to avoid matting of their coat, or contamination around their bottom and back legs. Hairless guinea pigs There are two main breeds of hairless guinea pigs, the Skinny and Baldwin. Unfortunately neither of these breeds are available in Australia. These breeds are characterised by being almost completely hairless, often bar a few hairs around their nose and feet. Their skin can be both pink, brown or black, in a variety of patterns.

Summer is officially out the door, making way for cooler nights, blankets, and fluffy socks!   But how can we help keep our little critters warm? Guinea pigs do not too well with extreme changes in temperature (hot or cold), but there are a number of things we can do to help keep our pets cosy and comfortable during the cooler months. And no, we don't have to put fluffy socks on their feet (can you imagine the drama?? 😆) Housing Indoors: Indoor housing offers a cool, protected and sheltered environment. It has the benefit of using electrical appliances, human monitoring is closer to hand, pests and predators are not an issue as it offers a hidden, secure area. While we understand it's not always possible for some families, we do recommend housing your pets indoors wherever possible! Blankets/Doonas: Cardboard and cage covers all provide further shelter from the chill of the winter air. Even if housed indoors the air temperature can become quite cool.Fleece Hideys: Guinea pigs love to burrow to keep warm during winter. A fantastic way to ensure your guinea pig has a warm place to snuggle is a piggy pouch, happy sack or similar item. Check out our great hidey range here! Hay: Dry, fresh grass hay is an excellent form of insulation in your guinea pigs cage, while providing constant snacking opportunities! Stock up on hay here.Heaters: Heaters can be used to keep and warm a room for your guinea pig. Please ensure any heater is not directly close to the cage but simply in the room.Fleece bedding: The right bedding makes all the difference! Our Ozzy Cage Fleece liners and our Ozzy Vet Bed range are both excellent choices for keeping your pet dry, comfortable and cosy. 

Whether it be your first guinea pigs or an addition to your current herd, bringing new guinea pigs home and welcoming them into the family is always such an exciting time. Guinea pigs make fantastic pets and despite their small size will explode with individual personalities as you get to know them. Guinea pigs are naturally prey animals, so in a new environment they will naturally tend to hide and protect themselves from any potential predators and danger – which can be very challenging for many new guinea pig parents. Taming and bonding with your guinea pigs will take some time, patience and a little bit of effort, however it will definitely be worth it as your guinea pigs become more confident and comfortable around you. Today we will go through our Top 10 Tips and Techniques for bonding with your guinea pigs. Before bringing your guinea pig home It is important to have everything you need ready and waiting to go prior to bringing your new guinea pigs home. This includes having an appropriate cage set up filled with lots of hiding places. See our previous blog here: Everything you need to get started. When you bring your Guinea pigs home When you first bring your guinea pigs home, they will naturally be very timid and scared going into a whole new environment. As tempting as it is to handle your new guinea pigs a lot on their first day, this new change in surroundings can be very stressful for them. We recommend placing them into their new home and giving them some time to settle in. Try and reduce any noise and sudden movements that may scare your guinea pigs. Most guinea pigs will tend to spend most of their time hiding to start with, but when they start to feel more comfortable and confident will begin to come out and explore their new surroundings – This is often at night time when everyone else is asleep. The first few days home Over the first few days, our goal is to start creating the first steps to bonding with our guinea pigs, and allowing them to recognise that we are not a threat or danger to them. We recommend pulling up a seat next to your guinea pig cage, allowing them to get used to your presence, but not feel too threatened. Gently talk to your guinea pigs, tell them about your day or what’s on your mind (guinea pigs can be great therapists!), allowing them to recognise and get used to your voice, and feel more comfortable with your voice and presence, showing them that you do not mean any harm or danger to them. Food is the way to a guinea pigs heart The way to a guinea pig heart is almost always, food. Guinea pigs love to eat, and using their favourite vegetables and occasional fruit can be a great way to build that interaction and bond. It is important to note that not all guinea pigs like all fruits and vegetables – some guinea pigs depending on their history, may never have been offered or had access to various foods before, so they may be timid at first when offered something new for the first time. Offer your guinea pig a few different food options to start with to try and find out what their preferences are – just like humans, guinea pigs have favourite foods too! Start out by placing a small amount of favourable foods in a more open area of the cage. Step 1 is to remove all human interaction and allow your guinea pig to come out and find the food off their own accord. Step 2, is to again, sit quietly next to your guinea pigs cage as they come out to eat. Step 3, is to gently talk to your guinea pigs as they come out for food. The first physical interactions Once your guinea pigs are happy to come out of hiding in your presence, it is time to progress to physical interaction. Start by placing some favourite snacks in the palm of your hand and extend it out to your guinea pigs, allowing them to come to you. Moving towards your guinea pigs too soon can come across as threatening and force them to retreat. It’s fine if they take the food and run – this is a normal and natural instinct – over time they will learn that you are not a threat and feel more comfortable accepting food off you. Hand feeding Now it is time to progress from submissive feeding to hand feeding. Depending on your guinea pigs temperament, there are two different methods you can try. The first is to feed small pieces of favourable foods, that are quickly eaten, encouraging your guinea pig to continue returning for more. If your guinea pigs are still a little timid, you can try the long-food technique, by offering a food such as long blades of grass or large cos lettuce leaves, that start further away, eventually eating their way closer to you. Create a routine Guinea pigs are very habitual creatures and love a routine. You may notice over time your guinea pigs will be ready and waiting for their breakfast or dinner, coming out of their hiding spots, wheeking, and even sometimes begging for food time. Creating a regular routine will encourage this more confident behaviour. Guinea pigs will quickly learn the sound of the fridge opening or a rustle of a plastic bag associated with food time!        8. Taking your guinea pigs out of their cage When taking your guinea pig out of the cage, it can be a whole new and scary experience for them, and you need to build a trusting relationship between you and your guinea pig for them to feel comfortable and confident. We recommend holding your guinea pigs in a cosy bed, tunnel, cuddle sac or blanket, so they feel safe and secure. This also helps to prevent a scared guinea pig from jumping out of your arms and causing injury. Always sit down when holding your new guinea pigs so there is less movement and reduced risk of injury if they were to fall. You want to create a positive experience when your guinea pigs are out and interacting with you – adding food and treats to their cuddle time is a great way to influence a positive experience. Some guinea pigs will tend to freeze and not move when being held – this is a normal instinctive behaviour when around potential ‘predators’ or danger, but over time as you add this to a regular routine your guinea pigs will become more comfortable and confident. Floor time Floor time is a fun way to interact with your guinea pigs. Creating a small pen or enclosure that is large enough for you to sit inside with your guinea pigs will encourage further interaction. You can place vegetables over your legs or on your lap and your guinea pigs will eventually start to approach, and eventually jump and explore on or around you! Remember: Taming guinea pigs takes time, patience and a little bit of effort. Every single guinea pig is different and every guinea pig has had different life experiences prior to being welcomed into your home – some guinea pigs will naturally be more timid or more confident than others, and some guinea pigs will take longer to build that confidence and trust. However with a little time and effort, you will soon see your piggies little personalities popping through, and they make fantastic pets and companions.

Many people have the misconception that guinea pigs are easy pets, who require a small cage for their small size, and all you have to do is feed them each day…. However this is a MYTH and despite their small size, guinea pigs are actually very intelligent critters. In the wild, guinea pigs spend much of their day foraging and interacting within their herd, so as responsible piggy owners it is up to us to ensure their physical, mental and social needs are met. It is extremely important to provide enrichment and mental stimulation for our guinea pigs to lead fulfilling lives, as otherwise they can develop severe boredom and loneliness, resulting in several health and behavioural issues. Why is providing enrichment to our guinea pigs important Encouraging exploration and foraging behaviours not only mimics their natural instincts, but has a positive effect on both their mental and physical health. Guinea pigs who are bored with no enrichment are more inclined to sit in the one spot all day, increasing the risk of health conditions such as pododermatitis (bumblefoot), obesity, and many other health conditions that are secondary due to obesity and inactibity, including cardiac and respiratory impairment, diabetes, faecal impaction, dental disease and many more.   Providing enrichment also reduces boredom and the development of other behavioural issues – guinea pigs who are bored will try and find their own entertainment within their surroundings and may include obsessive behaviors such as cage chewing, aggression, over-grooming, excessive drinking and playing with their water bottle to name a few. Providing Enrichment The first and considerably one of the most important aspects to consider when providing your guinea pig with an enriched and simulated life, is to provide them with enough space to interact, run and popcorn around their home. Ozzy cages are a great housing option as not only do they provide large floor space for zoomies, you can expand with a ramp and loft for added space, and customise it with many fun toys and accessories. Storage boxes underneath are also a great option to store your accessories as you re-arrange and swap them regularly. Another fun aspect of the Ozzy Cage, is the new clear panels. These panels have already enriched the lives of many Aussie pigs, allowing them to ‘see out’ and watch and interact with their human family. The recommended cage size depends on the number of guinea pigs in your herd. The table below is used as a guide, but if you have the ability – bigger is always better! In the wild, guinea pigs are prey animals, and spend much of their time hiding from predators. Therefore they are generally not huge fans of wide, open spaces and feel much more happy, comfortable and confident when they have many places to hide. You may notice your guinea pigs gain more confidence and become more active as they run from one hiding place to the next within their home. Guinea pigs are social animals, and prefer to be kept in pairs or larger groups. They rely heavily upon social interaction and spend a lot of their day playing, zooming and socialising with their cage mates. As prey animals guinea pigs rely on one another to warn of potential dangers, and will gain more confidence and explore more when they have ‘safety in numbers’. Enrichment Ideas Providing enrichment for your guinea pigs doesn’t have to be expensive and there are many affordable ways to stimulate and enrich their lives, and re-arranging their home regularly is great to change up their stimulation. Guinea pigs love to forage, and in the wild spend most of their day foraging for food. You can easily replicate this behaviour by hiding pieces of fruit, vegetables and treats throughout their home for them to find, rather than it being served up in a bowl, in the same place each day. Placing food at various heights, and in different feeding modalities such as hay bags and treat holders will also add some dexterity required to reach the food. Recycled items around the household can also be used for enrichment purposes, including cardboard boxes to hide in and chew, toilet rolls stuffed with hay and treats, piles of shredded paper and piles of hay with hidden treats. Creating a ‘treat clothes line’ is also another fun idea. Guinea pigs Australia has a wide range of treats and cage accessories available, as well as bundle packages for ultimate enrichment. Haypigs toys are one of our teams personal favourites and we encourage everyone to check them out!  Don’t forget to visit our social pages on Facebook, Instagram, Tik Tok and Youtube for more fun enrichment ideas for your piggies!

Playtime for Guinea Pigs Guinea pigs and bunnies are naturally curious creatures, and can become easily bored if their enclosure constantly stays the same, or they are left without things to keep them stimulated!  Thankfully, enrichment for critters isn't difficult, and there are lots of simple ideas you can put in place to keep your pets happy. 1. Hideys:Provide small houses or hideaways made of pet-safe wood, cardboard or fleece where your guinea pig can retreat and feel safe.SHOP HIDEYS2. Foraging Toys:Hide treats, grass or pellets in toys designed for foraging to encourage natural behaviors and provide mental stimulation.SHOP FORAGING TOYS3. Rotate toys and cage setup regularly:Rotate toys, accessories and rearrange your pets' cage setup regularly to keep things fresh and interesting for your pets.CLICK HERE FOR CAGE SETUP INSPIRATION4. Chew Toys:Offer a variety of chew toys made from safe materials like untreated wood, hay, or seagrass to help keep your critters' teeth trimmed and provide mental stimulation.SHOP CHEW TOYS5. Tunnels:Guinea pigs and rabbits love to explore, so adding tunnels or tubes can offer them a fun way to move around and play in their enclosure.SHOP TUNNELS6. Social Interaction:Guinea pigs are social animals and benefit from regular interaction with other guinea pigs and their human companions. Spend time interacting with them, offering gentle handling, and talking to them to build trust and bond with them. Our cuddle scarves are a great way for both you and your pet to relax together!

As prey animals, guinea pigs have developed interesting sleeping habits which are quite different to our own!In the past, keeping a watchful eye for predators 24/7 means that they've got quite the sporadic sleeping schedule, that's instilled in our furry friends natural sleep behaviours today.Let's take a look at what's normal! Crepuscular Nature: Guinea pigs are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during dawn and dusk. This trait is inherited from their wild ancestors and is linked to their survival instincts. Short Naps: Guinea pigs typically take short naps throughout the day rather than having one long sleep session. They may nap for just a few minutes, interspersed with periods of activity. Alertness: Even when they're asleep, guinea pigs remain alert to potential dangers in their environment. They have a tendency to wake up quickly if they sense any disturbances or perceive threats. Comfortable Environment: Guinea pigs prefer to sleep in a safe and comfortable environment. Providing them with a cozy hideout or shelter within their enclosure can help them feel secure and promote better sleep. Social Sleeping: Guinea pigs are social animals and often enjoy sleeping close to their companions. They may huddle together for warmth and security, especially during cooler temperatures. Sleeping Positions: Guinea pigs may sleep in various positions, including lying flat on their sides, curling up into a ball, or stretching out with their legs extended. These positions can vary depending on individual preferences and comfort! Sleeping Frequency: The amount of sleep a guinea pig needs can vary from individual to individual. Factors such as age, health, and environmental conditions can influence their sleep patterns. Piggies needs between 4-6 hours of total sleep per day to stay healthy. 

If you own a guinea pig (or several), I'm sure you can appreciate their extraordinary love for food, as you hear their little wheeks every time the fridge opens or bag crinkles.... If a guinea pig stops eating or turns their nose up when offered their favourite food, you know there is an issue (for example pain or illness), and quick observation and the addition of supplement feeding could be the difference between life or death for your furry companion.  Guinea pigs have very complicated gastrointestinal systems, and rely on a consistent source of high fibre food for normal digestive function to take place. Guinea pigs are known as hindgut fermenters meaning most of their food travels quite quickly through the stomach and small intestine until it reaches a part of the digestive tract called the caecum. This is where most of the digestion and extraction of nutrients takes place.  If you notice your guinea pig has stopped eating or is having difficulty eating, it is important to book a vet appointment asap, as inappetence usually indicates a serious underlying illness, a source of pain, or severe dental disease` physically stopping your guinea pig from being able to chew. When your guinea pig stops eating, their digestive tract slows down or may even stop, resulting in a painful and life threatening condition called GI Stasis.  As a guinea pig owner, we always recommend having some supplement feed and syringes on hand in your guinea pig emergency kit. Two products we recommend are Oxbow Critical Care Herbivore and Burgess Dual Care.  These products are also great options to help assist feed your guinea pigs after recovering from surgical procedures encouraging normal gut motility and function after undergoing an anaesthetic.   Preparation: The first thing you need to do is prepare the supplement feed - depending on which product you use there will be instructions on the product packaging regarding how much water you need to add, in order to mix to the correct concentration. It is very important to follow these instructions as not enough water will make it difficult to syringe, however too much water will result in diluted feed and a reduced amount of nutrients received by your piggy.  The daily requirements will also vary on product differences and the weight of your guinea pig, and should be fed over 5-6 meals per day. On average, an adult 1kg guinea pig will require about 50ml of supplement feeding per day.   How to assist feed your guinea pig: Guinea pigs can be resistant to assisted feeding, especially to start with, so it is important to keep them calm, comfortable, and adequately restrained. Wrapping them in a towel can help.  The syringe should be placed behind the front incisors, into the side of the mouth, with a slow and gentle push of the plunger. Only small amounts of food should be syringed at a time, approximately 1-2mls, allowing time for your guinea pig to chew and swallow the food in between without choking or aspirating.  We recommend weighing your guinea pig regularly on a small set of scales (kitchen scales work great) to monitor for any weight loss.  Risks of assisted feeding: Unfortunately assisted feeding your guinea pig does not come without risk. Aspiration of the supplemented food into the respiratory tract and lungs is one of the most common and life threatening complications, often resulting in pneumonia and breathing difficulties. Aspiration occurs when guinea pigs are fed too much too quickly, overfilling the mouth, not allowing enough time to chew and swallow, or using too much force on the syringe plunger. The most important take home message is to be patient, and feed slowly and gently. 

Eye disease in guinea pigs is something commonly noticed  by guinea pig parents, and is often a cause for concern. Veterinary care should be sought ASAP as ocular disease can result in permanent damage, blindness, or loss of the eye without prompt treatment. Normal Guinea Pig Eyes Colouration of guinea pig eyes vary considerably, and can range from a pink/red colour to dark black or brown naturally. Guinea pigs do not blink frequently like other mammals, and often you may even find them sleeping with their eyes open! Unfortunately this can put them at an increased risk of ocular disease and injury. Guinea pigs are believed to have Dichromatic colour vision, meaning they do have the ability to see certain colour ranges, however is not as vivid as our colour vision as humans. Signs of Ocular Disease If you notice any of these signs in your guinea pigs, it is important to seek veterinary advice straight away. Eye disease often requires urgent treatment and care. Cloudiness of the eye Redness or inflammation of the eye or surrounding soft tissue Frequent pawing or scratching at the eyes Keeping an eye closed, or squinting Discharge or crusts from the eye Constant tearing Bulges or masses Discolouration (cataracts) Common causes of eye disease in guinea pigs Corneal Ulceration Defined as any form of damage to the surface of the eye, including scratches, abrasions or irritation. This can be caused by a number of reasons, but is commonly due to traumatic injury such as hay poke, course bedding, or fighting with other guinea pigs. Infection Guinea pigs can be prone to ocular infections resulting in conjunctivitis. These can be due to contagious viral or bacterial infections, or excessive amounts of bacteria or fungal spores in the environment. Dental disease Dental disease is extremely common in guinea pigs, and can result in tooth root abscessation which often results in swelling under the eyes where the roots of the upper cheek teeth are located. Neoplasia Guinea pigs can develop tumours behind or around the eyes, which may result in a buldgy appearance of the eye or other issues. Cataracts Is a blue discolouration of the eyes, and can affect either one or both eyes. Cataracts can occur due to a range of reasons, including congenital or hereditary conditions, old age or diabetes. Blocked nasolacrimal duct Guinea pigs, like most other mammals, have a duct that runs between their eyes and nose. Occasionally, this duct can become blocked for a variety of reasons, including infection, or obstruction from growths. When this duct is blocked, tears are not able to continue down the passage and begin to ‘overflow’, resulting in increased clear ocular discharge. Microphthalmia Refers to having smaller than normal, or absent eyes. It is generally a hereditary condition diagnosed at birth, and very common in lethal guinea pigs. Pea eye Is a non-life threatening condition, and refers to a permanent protrusion of the conjunctival sac with a fatty deposit.  Photo credit: Guinea lynx Treatment of Ocular Disease If you notice any signs of ocular disease in your guinea pigs, it is important to book a consultation with your veterinarian as soon as possible. Eye disease can be very serious and result in permanent damage to the eye, blindness, or even loss of the eye itself. Whilst waiting for your vet appointment, you can clean any discharge from your guinea pigs eye with a warm, damp cloth. This will avoid hardening discharge to your guinea pigs hair, and may help to reduce some inflammation and pain. It is also recommended to ensure your guinea pigs bedding is clean and free of dust or irritants, including ammonia from soiled, urine soaked bedding.   When guinea pigs are in pain, they may stop eating, which in turn can result in a condition called ileus where the intestines stop moving. This can be life threatening. Your vet will provide pain relief, however if your guinea pig has stopped eating or a reduced appetite, you should supplement their diet with syringe fed Oxbow Critical Care or Burgess Dual Care. Your vet will perform a physical examination on your guinea pig to help with a diagnosis and create a treatment plan. This may include further diagnostic tests such as using a special stain to assess any damage or injury to the surface of the eye, taking a swab of any discharge to assess microscopically or send away for culture and sensitivity testing to establish the most effective antibiotics required. They may also recommend imaging such as radiographs or an MRI to assess for dental disease or tumours. Your vet will likely prescribe some eye drops and medications for your guinea pigs, depending on what condition is diagnosed. It is very important to NOT USE ANY SELF-PRESCRIBED MEDICATIONS as some eye drops can be detrimental if instilled when a corneal ulcer is present.