News

Lumps and Bumps in Guinea Pigs Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a piggy passionate veterinarian, and today I’d like to chat about something I see quite regularly in clinic, lumps and bumps in guinea pigs. It can be worrying to discover a lump on your pet, and while not every lump is dangerous, it’s always important to have it checked early. What Could a Lump Mean on your Guinea Pig? Lumps in guinea pigs, just like humans and other animals, can have many causes. Some are harmless, like sebaceous cysts, while others, such as abscesses or tumours may require treatment. It’s not always easy to tell what a lump is just by looking or feeling it, which is why a vet check-up is essential. The only way to tell what type of lump is present is to extract cellular material from the lump and assess it microscopically. In some instances, your vet may recommend sending a sample away to be interpretated by a pathologist at a nearby laboratory to confirm the diagnosis.  Types of Lumps in guinea pigs There are many different types of lumps that guinea pigs can develop, hence the importance of getting an accurate diagnosis by your veterinarian if you notice any changes in your guinea pigs skin.  Abscesses - Can become quite large lumps, generally appear quite quickly and can be hot and painful. They are usually the result from an infection such as a small wound that has become infected, or something such as dental disease and infection of the tooth roots. Abscesses do require veterinary intervention, especially to assess and treat the underlying cause.  Tumours - There are many different types of tumours and growths guinea pigs can develop - they can vary in consistency and may or may not be cancerous. Lipoma's for example are a type of benign tumour made from fatty deposits under the skin - Lipoma's don't cause immediate danger to your piggies however they can grow quite large and impede their normal mobility and function. Some tumours however can be quite nasty and spread to different parts of the body including other organs.  Sebaceous Cysts - Are a benign lump arising from hair follicles that have become clogged with dead skin cells and sebum (an oily secretion). These usually don't cause harm to your guinea pigs, however may become large, infected or ulcerated. In some cases we recommend conservative treatment whilst others may require surgical removal.  What to Do If You Find a Lump If you notice anything unusual, book a visit to your local cavy savvy vet. We'll usually perform a physical exam and might recommend a fine needle aspirate, biopsy, or drainage, depending on what we suspect the lump to be. Keep in mind that early detection leads to better outcomes. We highly recommend performing regular health checks on your piggies to check for any early changes - check out our YOUTUBE VIDEO HERE ON HOW TO PERFORM A HEALTH CHECK AT HOME.  Guinea pigs that are part of the family, living indoors, getting regular health checks and getting plenty of interaction from the family, tend to have their health concerns picked up and addressed more quickly, often resulting in better outcomes.  Prevention Tips While not all lumps can be prevented, maintaining your guinea pig’s health goes a long way. Make sure their living environment is clean and safe. Avoid sharp or rough accessories in their cage, especially if you’re using a DIY guinea pig cage solution. This can prevent injuries and infection under the skin.  Diet also plays a role, especially when it comes to preventing dental disease and tooth root abscessation. Knowing what guinea pigs eat is key to supporting a strong immune system and high levels of Vitamin C. Ensure your guinea pigs always have access to a good quality hay such as timothy, meadow, pasture or oaten hay, as well as supplementation with a good quality pellet such as Burgess Excel and fresh vegetables daily.  When to Be Concerned We recommend all new lumps and bumps be assessed by a veterinarian, as it is impossible to tell if a lump is malignant or benign just from appearance and touch, without assessing it's cellular make-up. If a lump grows rapidly, is firm and fixed, or causes your guinea pig discomfort, don’t delay seeking veterinary care. Lumps near the jaw or on the feet can become problematic quickly and may impact eating or movement. Final Thoughts from Dr Sam While a lump isn’t always a cause for panic, it should never be ignored. Some lumps can be managed conservatively, be non-painful and not cause any further issues, whilst others can be malignant, painful, and potentially life threatening. Often the only way to cure tumours is surgical removal. Some lumps that were previously benign and not causing any issues can change over time and become larger, ulcerated or infected, which may be reason for a re-check. I recommend getting any new or changing lumps checked by your cavy savvy vet to ensure your piggy is getting the best treatment. 

Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a piggy passionate veterinarian, and today I want to walk you through the basics of caring for baby and young guinea pigs. These tiny, squeaky bundles of fluff are not only adorable but also surprisingly delicate. Proper care in the early weeks is essential to help them grow into healthy, happy adults. The First Few Days: What to Expect Baby guinea pigs, known as pups, are born fully furred, with their eyes open and ready to move. They’ll start nibbling on solid food very quickly, often within a few hours of birth, but they’ll also nurse from their mother for around three weeks. During this time, it’s important to provide high-quality hay which supports their digestive development. This is one of the few occasions where we recommend a lucerne or alfalfa based hay, which is slightly higher in calcium and great for bone development and milk production for mum.  Housing Young Guinea Pigs  In comparison to other rodents, rabbits and small mammals,  baby guinea pigs are born quite large and developed, however we do still need to ensure that they are kept in a safe environment they are unable to injure themselves or escape from. Baby guinea pigs are still quite small, and may require adjustments to your adult guinea pig cage or setup. If you keep your guinea pigs in an Ozzy Cage or C&C type set up we recommend using BAR GRIDS or BABY GRIDS as they provide smaller holes your young piggies are unable to escape from. You can also double up and cross over normal OZZY GRIDS to create smaller holes.  Baby and young guinea pigs are quite small and fragile, so we need to ensure they are kept in a safe and secure environment away from any predators, particularly household pets such as cats and dogs, as well as any adult guinea pigs who may be acting more territorial. We also need to ensure it is kept clean and hygienic as young guinea pigs are still developing their immune system and can be more susceptible to illness and infection.    Handling and Socialising Young Guinea Pigs Gentle daily handling from a young age can help your guinea pigs become friendly and well-socialised - however we do have to be mindful of their size, they’re fragile and quick to wriggle! Adult supervision is always recommend when children are handling guinea pigs, especially tiny, wriggly and agile young guinea pigs. It is important to always support their full body when picking them up, and to handle them close to the ground incase they were to fall. It may help to hold them in a secure bed or wrap to prevent them wriggling out of yours or your little ones hands.  Using toys for guinea pigs is a great way to encourage natural behaviours and stimulate mental development. If in doubt do some DIY guinea pig toys like cardboard tunnels and hay-stuffed paper rolls can help young pigs learn to explore and play. Check out the GPA Instagram or Tiktok page for some great ideas! There are also many toys available on the market to provide more stimulation and enrichment for your piggies - however NOT ALL TOYS ARE SAFE! Check out those on our website for tried and tested guinea pig safe toys and accessories.  Nutrition and Weaning In the first few weeks, baby guinea pigs need a diet rich in nutrients to support their rapid growth. In addition to mum’s milk, they should have unlimited access to high-quality hay, fresh leafy greens, and a small portion of guinea pig pellets. As mentioned above, young guinea pigs and nursing mothers are one of the few times we recommend feeding a mixture of pasture and lucerne/alfalfa based hay due to the higher calcium content being beneficial for bone development and milk production. When purchasing a HIGH QUALITY pellet, you may find they have age specific recommendations such as Oxbow Young Guinea Pig Food which includes a slight difference of ingredients and composition to support the needs of growing piggies compared to adults.  Clean, fresh water must be available at all times. Small water bottles are best for hygiene and monitoring intake, especially for young pigs, as well as reducing the risk of drowning or hypothermia if they were to get wet. You can offer bowls of water but ensure they are shallow enough to prevent drowning.  Male guinea pigs need to be weaned and separated from their mother and sisters at 3 weeks of age to prevent further reproduction.  When to See the Vet Even with the best care, young guinea pigs are vulnerable to illness, and can go downhill very quickly. Watch closely for any signs of illness like weight loss, diarrhoea, lethargy, or changes in eating habits. Early vet intervention can make all the difference.  Final Thoughts from Dr Sam Visiting a local rescue near you is the best place to find guinea pigs to add to your home - with young or baby guinea pigs regularly available! However as cute as they are, please don't look past some of our adult piggies that are longing for their fur-ever home - they make just as great pets and you can often tell their personality or temperament prior to adoption.  See our list of Australian Guinea Pig Rescues Here Raising baby guinea pigs is a joyful and rewarding experience, but it comes with responsibility. With the right nutrition, housing, and care, you’ll give your piggies the best start in life. If you have any concerns or want advice tailored to your setup please reach out to our expert team at Guinea Pigs Australia. Unsure on what you need? We offer a wide range of safe bedding, food, and accessories perfect for young guinea pigs. Simply browse our website and send us an email if you aren’t sure on what you need. We are here to help!

Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a small animal veterinarian, and today I’d like to talk about a condition that’s quite common in older male guinea pigs, but not often well understood - impaction. If you’ve noticed your guinea pig straining to pass droppings or appearing uncomfortable and smelly around the back end, this blog is for you. What Is Impaction? Impaction occurs when a guinea pig is unable to properly expel faeces from their rectum, causing a build-up in the perineal sac. This is a natural pouch located just inside the anus, and in older male guinea pigs especially, it can become stretched and weakened over time. As a result, faeces and soft droppings can accumulate, leading to discomfort, odour, and potential infection. You may notice your guinea pig is still able to expel normal hard faeces despite the softer faeces and cecotropes becoming impacted.  Who Is Most at Risk? While impaction can technically occur in any guinea pig, it is most commonly seen in older, unneutered males. As guinea pigs age, the muscles responsible for clearing the perineal sac weaken. Impaction is more commonly seen in entire boars as the weight of their large testicles and surrounding fat pads will over time contribute to the stretching and weakening of the muscles and ligaments used to expel faeces. Boars who are neutered in their younger years do not suffer from the same pathology.   Poor diet, obesity, geriatric age and limited mobility can also increase the risk - especially if they are not able to reach their perineal sac and maintain their own hygiene as easily.  Signs to Watch For The most obvious sign of impaction is a noticeable swelling or lump near your guinea pig’s bottom. You may also observe straining, dragging of the bottom, reduced appetite, or soft droppings smeared around the hindquarters. Some guinea pigs may become less active or appear grumpy due to discomfort. If you notice a foul smell or discharge, this could indicate infection, which requires immediate veterinary attention. How to Manage and Treat Impaction If your guinea pig is showing signs of impaction, I strongly recommend a veterinary examination to rule out other issues such as infection and other underlying issues, as well as to ensure your piggy is receiving the correct treatment. In many cases, mild impaction can be managed at home with regular cleaning of the perineal sac. This involves manual evacuation and gentle removal of the built-up faecal matter. This can be uncomfortable for your guinea pig if caution is not taken, so it is important to use a lubricant such as baby oil to help with the evacuation, along with some cotton tips and gentle pressure. It is normal to have an unpleasant odour, however please consult your veterinarian if the smell is strong or you suspect there may be an infection present. I also recommend to wear gloves during the cleaning process.  Some guinea pigs may also benefit from weight management, increased exercise, or dietary adjustments. Ensuring your pet lives in a clean, spacious indoor cage for guinea pigs with plenty of opportunity to move around and forage can go a long way in supporting their gut health. Providing soft, absorbent guinea pigs beds also helps prevent faecal matter from sticking and creating further hygiene problems. Final Thoughts from Dr Sam Impaction can be quite uncomfortable for your piggy, but it is a manageable condition. Unfortunately once the area stretches it is very difficult to reverse those changes and often becomes a life long condition, however early detection and early intervention is key to prevent the condition from worsening.   Like many guinea pig health issues, prevention is often easier than treatment. The most effective way of preventing impaction in guinea pigs is desexing at a younger age, and I encourage you to have this conversation with your cavy savvy vet. Keeping your guinea pigs healthy with a good diet high in fibre, and ability to exercise and move around will also help to keep their digestive health in check.  If you're ever unsure about your guinea pig’s behaviour or bowel habits, please don’t hesitate to contact your cavy savvy veterinarian. Catching these issues early really does make a world of difference. 

Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a small animal veterinarian, and today I’d like to talk about how to safely transition your guinea pigs to new foods. This is something I often see guinea pig owners struggle with in practice. Whether you're switching to a different type of hay, introducing a new vegetable, or upgrading your pellets, a slow and careful approach is essential to keep your guinea pig happy and healthy. Understanding What Guinea Pigs Eat A healthy guinea pig diet is based predominantly on hay. In fact, hay should make up around 80% of their daily intake. It’s vital for keeping their digestive systems functioning properly and also helps wear down their ever-growing teeth. In my experience, the most common types of hay available in Australia include timothy, oaten and pasture hay.  Alongside hay, your guinea pig should also be eating a small amount of fresh vegetables daily (about 1 cup per adult guinea pig), and a specially formulated pellet designed for guinea pigs —particularly one that contains added vitamin C. Read more about choosing the best guinea pig pellet here. Why and When to Transition Food There are several reasons why you might need to change your guinea pigs food. Sometimes it’s as simple as your usual product being out of stock or discontinued. Other times, you may want to switch to a higher quality brand or a more nutritious alternative. You might also notice your guinea pig becoming fussy or uninterested in their current diet, or perhaps a health issue requires a dietary adjustment. Whatever the reason, the most important rule to follow is to make any transition gradually. Sudden changes can easily upset their gut and cause more harm than good. Making the Transition Safely When introducing a new type of hay, start by mixing it with the old hay. At first, use just a small amount of the new variety. Over a week or more, increase the proportion of the new hay while decreasing the old. This allows your guinea pigs time to adjust to the change in texture, taste, and smell. Keep the hay fresh and clean, and try offering it in different parts of their enclosure to encourage natural foraging behaviour. When changing pellets from one brand to another, a similar technique is used. Different brands may have a transition guide on the back of their packaging which is handy to follow, such as Burgess Excel. We recommend slowly transitioning pellets over a period of 14 to 28 days, starting with about 75% of old pellets mixed with 25% of the new pellets. Over the next week we recommend gradually reducing the ratio to 50% of each pellet, and week 3 adjusting the ratio again to 75% of the new pellet, 25% of the old pellet.  When adding new vegetables only introduce one new food at a time. For example, if you're adding capsicum to their diet, offer just a small piece at first and monitor them over the next 24 hours. You’ll want to look out for signs like soft stools, bloating, or any change in behaviour.  Also, make sure your guinea pigs have access to fresh water at all times.    Avoiding Common Issues One of the biggest mistakes I see as a vet is owners switching guinea pigs food too often and too quickly. This often leads to fussy piggies who are reluctant to eat the newly offered food, which is both frustrating as an owner and not ideal for guinea pig health if they are missing vital parts of their diet. Swapping food too quickly or too often can also lead to gut stasis, which is a serious condition that causes their digestive system to slow down or stop altogether as it has not had time to adjust to the changes in diet - this can become life threatening.  Monitoring Guinea Pig Health A great way to check how your guinea pig is coping with a food change is to watch their droppings. Healthy guinea pigs produce firm, oval-shaped poos. If you start seeing smaller, misshapen, or fewer droppings, it may mean their digestive system is struggling. Behaviour is also a key indicator—if your guinea pig is quieter than usual, less active, or not showing interest in food, it could be a sign something’s wrong. Final Thoughts from Dr Sam As a vet, I truly believe that taking your time when changing your guinea pig’s diet is one of the kindest things you can do for them. Moving slowly, watching closely, and keeping their environment consistent will help ensure a smooth transition. Whether it’s new vegetables, pellets, or hay, your efforts will be rewarded with a happy, healthy guinea pig. If you're unsure at any point, reach out to your local vet for advice. It's always better to ask than to guess. And remember, keeping your guinea pigs well-fed, hydrated, and enriched will go a long way toward a long and joyful life together.

Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a small animal veterinarian, and one of the most common questions I get in the clinic is: “Should I keep my guinea pigs indoors or outdoors?” It’s a fantastic question and one that has no one-size-fits-all answer. Let’s dive into the pros and cons of each setup so you can make the best decision for your furry friends. Outdoor Housing: The Pro's It's undeniable that guinea pigs love time outside, filled with plenty of natural enrichment, fresh air, and space to graze on fresh grass. Watching them nibble grass and enjoy the sunshine is incredibly rewarding. Grass is a great source of fibre and constant access is great for their digestive health, as well as dental health keeping their teeth worn and an appropriate length. (Read more about dental health here).  I do believe that the enrichment and enjoyment guinea pigs get from spending time outside is incredibly beneficial for both their mental and physical health, however caution must be taken to ensure your guinea pigs are kept safe.  Outdoor Housing: The Con's  The great outdoors can be very unpredictable, posing many risk factors to our guinea pigs who are housed outside. One of the #1 risks of outdoor housing in Australia are the large array of natural predators, including snakes, birds of prey and domestic pets who all pose a very real danger. If you are housing your guinea pigs outdoors it's important to ensure that their enclosure is as predator-proof as possible.  Risk #2 of outdoor housing in Australia is exposure to the elements. As we know, Australia's weather is famously unpredictable, and temperatures can swing dramatically in a single day. Hyperthermia (overheating) is one of the leading causes of death in Aussie pigs - one of the most common reasons being the unexpected fluctuation of temperatures throughout the day without adequate shade or cooling. REMEMBER Their enclosure may be located in the shade in the morning when you leave home, but the sun will shift throughout the day. Likewise, in cooler climates, hypothermia (reduction in body temperature) can also be life threatening, along with rain, flooding and other adverse weather events. It is important to note that even a well constructed cage can't always protect them from the elements.  Whilst we are here, I would also like to make note of wire-bottom cages, which historically have been very common in outdoor enclosures, allowing grass to poke through the gaps. Thankfully, as time, research and animal welfare standards have evolved, we now know that whilst having wire on the bottom of these cages can help keep predators at bay (especially if the cage is tipped over), it unfortunately also predisposes and promotes the development of a condition called Pododermatitis (otherwise known as bumblefoot) which can become a very serious and life threatening condition for our piggies.  Indoor Housing: A Safer, More Social Option In recent years, we’ve seen a big shift toward indoor housing, especially among families who consider their guinea pigs part of the family. Indoor setups eliminate the risk of predators and extreme weather, two of the major cons of outdoor housing. Indoor housing allows you to create a more controlled environment.  Another big advantage of indoor housing is early detection of health issues. When your guinea pigs are close by, it’s easier to notice changes in appetite, droppings, and behaviour. Being able to more easily and effectively monitor aspects such as how much food they are eating and if there is a reduction in appetite, a reduction or change in the appearance of faeces or decreased motility, can lead to early detection of any underlying health issues. Early detection and prompt treatment can save lives.  Another benefit is indoor guinea pigs tend to be more bonded to their owners. They become familiar with your voice, your presence, and your daily routines. This can lead to a stronger emotional connection—and let’s be honest, they’re just adorable to have around. There are SO MANY fun and adorable cage designs, accessories, toys and enrichment options available for our piggies homes - and it is so much fun for piggy parents to customise and create new aspects for the whole family to enjoy.  Indoor housing - the con's One of the most common complaints about housing guinea pigs indoors is their smell. Whilst we agree, they will develop an odour if kept in an unhygienic cage that is not maintained, there are many ways to mitigate this. We recommend using an easy to clean bedding such as Ozzy Fleece Liners. Using bedding that wicks moisture and are easy to clean will make your life so much easier keeping your piggies cage clean and hygienic. Choosing a liner that you can easily spot clean daily and chuck in the washing machine will keep any smells to a minimum.    Final Thoughts from Dr Sam Overall, I strongly advocate for indoor housing as their primary set up. For me, their overall safety is of paramount importance and there are too many unpredictable factors outside out of our control. In the veterinary clinic, I do notice a significant earlier intervention for health concerns, and stronger bonds with owners who keep their piggies indoors compared to outdoors full time. Ideally I think a hybrid approach to housing is most ideal. Supervised outside time in a safe environment has many benefits, and grazing and exploring different textures keeps them mentally stimulated and physically active, as well as being able to express some of their natural foraging behaviors.  👉 Watch the full video for more tips and a deeper dive into this topic If you have any question, please get in touch with us here.

Hi everyone, I’m Dr Sam, a small animal veterinarian with a passion for piggies, and in today’s blog we’re diving into a lesser-known but very important condition that can affect your guinea pigs—diabetes. While it’s not as common as in humans, dogs or cats, guinea pigs can develop diabetes and early detection and proper care can make all the difference. What Is Diabetes in Guinea Pigs? Diabetes mellitus is a metabolic disorder where the body either doesn’t produce enough insulin or can’t effectively use it. Insulin is produced by the pancreas, and helps regulate blood sugar levels within the body.  When it’s not working properly, glucose builds up in the bloodstream, and the body is unable to utilise this sugar for energy - instead using stored fat and protein from the body as alternative energy sources. In guinea pigs, this can lead to a range of symptoms and long-term health complications if not managed properly.  What Causes It? The exact cause of diabetes in guinea pigs isn’t fully understood, but it’s often linked to poor diet, genetics and obesity. In my experience, guinea pigs that are fed a diet too high in sugar and carbohydrates such as excessive fruits and treats, are particularly at risk.  One of the best things you can do is stick to a healthy, high-fibre diet. Focus on hay as the primary food source, and avoid over-reliance on pellets or sugary fruits and veggies. It is also important to note that diabetes and elevated blood glucose levels can be transient in guinea pigs, and with correct management guinea pigs can enter remission.    Symptoms to Watch For Common signs of diabetes in guinea pigs include excessive thirst and urination, weight loss despite a good appetite, lethargy, and in some cases, cataracts or cloudy eyes. Due to drinking more water they will ultimately urinate more, and you may notice your guinea pig sitting in a constantly wet area, or have wet hair around their back end.  If your guinea pig lives in an indoor cage you may find it easier to notice these subtle changes, and why it is so important to keep their bedding clean and monitor changes in their daily habits. Early detection often comes down to knowing what’s normal for your pet and spotting when things change. How Is It Diagnosed and Treated? Diagnosing diabetes usually involves a vet check up, a blood test and a urine test. The blood test will not only check your guinea pigs blood glucose levels, but also their kidney function, as renal impairment can display similar signs to diabetes, as well as occur simultaneously. A urine test will also help assess renal function, as well as looking for excess glucose being excreted into the urine.   If diabetes is confirmed by your veterinarian, treatment may include dietary changes, weight management, and regular monitoring. In some severe cases, medication might be needed, although that’s quite rare for guinea pigs. Unlike other animals, we generally don’t treat diabetic guinea pigs with insulin unless under very specific circumstances. Instead, managing the condition through diet is usually the best option. Your vet can help you choose the most suitable guinea pig food and develop a dietary and treatment plan to keep their weight and glucose levels under control. Supporting Your Guinea Pig at Home Create a safe and enriching environment with space to exercise, hide, and forage. Clean, soft bedding is essential, as diabetes can increase the risk of infections, especially if your guinea pig is sitting in damp areas.  If you suspect your guinea pig may have diabetes, don’t delay—book a check-up. With the right care and attention, many guinea pigs with diabetes can live a good quality life and may even reach remission. Please contact us if you have any questions. 

Importance of Guinea Pig Hydration Like all mammals, good hydration is necessary for optimal health and normal body function. Hydration plays a large role in several body systems, including optimal blood pressure and the perfusion of oxygen around the body, the excretion of urine and toxins out of the body, and normal digestion through the GIT, just to name a few. Providing fresh, clean water for our guinea pigs should be part of our daily care routine, and it is so important that water is readily available 24/7.  Factors affecting Water Intake There are many factors that impact the normal quantity of water that guinea pigs should drink per day, this may include:  Age and Size  Pregnancy or lactating status (Higher metabolic requirements requires more water) Activity level (More active guinea pigs will drink more water) Environmental factors (Guinea pigs in warmer environments will require more water) Normal Daily Water Intake for Guinea Pigs The average daily water intake for guinea pigs is approximately 10ml/100g of body weight. This means a 1kg guinea pig requires about 100ml of water per day. This can vary as per the above factors*  Bowls or Water Bottles?  Ultimately this is a personal preference, for both you and your piggies. Some guinea pigs will prefer to drink out of bowls, whilst others will prefer water bottles. We recommend giving your guinea pigs options to find out what they like most, as the most important thing is they are receiving an adequate water intake one way or another. Most pet owners and guinea pigs will prefer water bottles however as they are generally cleaner and less contaminated than bowls. It may also be easier to monitor water intake using water bottles.  Buttercup pet products water bottle and holder: Available at Guinea Pigs Australia  Signs of Dehydration in Guinea Pigs The most common signs of dehydration in guinea pigs are:  Reduced activity levels and weakness Sunken eyes Decreased urination  Reduced appetite  Noted reduced water intake If you suspect your guinea pigs are dehydrated, it is important to ensure they have access to multiple water points, with clean and fresh water. It may also help to feed high water content vegetables such as cucumber, watermelon and cos lettuce, or spritzing their daily vegetables with water to help increase intake. If your guinea pig is showing signs of being unwell please visit your veterinarian - dehydration can be life threatening.  My Guinea pigs drink a LOT of water - what to do next?  The average water intake for a 1kg guinea pig is approximately 100ml of water per day - this is an average guide and a very variable figure as there are many factors that can affect normal water intake volumes.  Drinking excessive amounts of water can however be a sign of several underlying medical conditions, and if you believe your guinea pig is drinking too much water we recommend a check up at your local cavy-savvy veterinarian. Your vet may recommend running tests such as blood and urine tests to check for underlying conditions.  Any questions?  If you have any questions on Guinea Pig hydration, or on our products custom-made for this need, get in touch with the team at Guinea Pigs Australia here.  

Hi everyone, I'm Dr Sam a small animal veterinarian, and today I will be talking about my top 3 reasons why I generally DO NOT recommend muesli based mixes for our little piggies. When I say Muesli based diets, I am referring to a pellet type mix that often contains some hay, some pellets, some seeds, some lucerne, some bits of coloured dry fruit, and whatever else is decided to put in. It essentially is a mix that looks like it provides plenty of variety - however, it's not always all it seems!  Reason #1: Promotes Selective Feeding in Guinea Pigs The first reason why I don't like these types of mixes, is because it promotes selective feeding. You'll often find your piggies will eat their favourite parts or ingredients of the mix, and leave behind the ingredients that they're not a huge fan of. It's like if we're offered a food platter, I personally would automatically gravitate towards the chocolately sweets rather than the carrot sticks - and we all know which one is the healthier and better option! Selective feeding is the underlying issue leading into my next two points...  Reason #2: Promotes Obesity and other Guinea Pig Health Issues When guinea pigs selective feed, they will often gravitate to the fattier and more unhealthy ingredients offered (as above - the chocolate brownies over the carrot sticks for us!), which overall is not fantastic for their health. A lot of the mix type foods contain a high amount of seeds, nuts and dried fruit, all of which contain quite a high fat and sugar content - which should essentially be kept as more `of an occasional treat'. Guinea pigs also have a very complex digestive system and require high amounts of fibre in their diet, so these high fats and sugars aren't always tolerated well. Obesity can lead to a menagerie of other health conditions, which may involve the urinary system, cardiac system, respiratory system and digestive system, as well as conditions such as pododermatitis aka bumblefoot.  Reason #3: Promotes Nutritional Deficiencies in Guinea Pigs This is probably one of the most crucial reasons to ensure our guinea pigs are getting a good quality, uniform pellet. First off, most of the more reputable pellet brands, who have a lot of scientific backing and a very comprehensive nutritional breakdown with stabilised vitamin C, will usually be in the form of a uniform pellet - meaning they all look the same, and have even nutrients throughout each pellet. A lot of the mix type foods are actually unable to provide an accurate and comprehensive nutritional breakdown if you read the back of the bag, such as exact concentrations of Vitamin A, C, D and E, phosphorous and calcium for example. It's important to note that when diets read 'may contain the following ingredients....' it is not guaranteed in each bag, and an exact nutritional breakdown usually cannot be provided.  Vitamin C is one of THE MOST important vitamins, as guinea pigs NEED to get their Vitamin C from their diet, which is usually partially from a good quality pellet, and partially from daily vegetables. If they are selective feeding, they may not be eating the high vitamin C ingredients and will end up developing a Vitamin C deficiency. Vitamin C is also a very fragile vitamin and the high quality pellet manufacturers will usually have gone through a process to stabilise the Vitamin C, allowing reduced degradation over time.  For more information on How to Choose the Right Pellet for your Guinea Pigs at home, check out our below resources:  Click here to read our Blog Post Click here to watch Dr Sam on Youtube 

Have you recently purchased your first Ozzy Cage? Or are you looking into housing options for your guinea pigs and want to know just how easy and customisable Ozzy Cages are to construct? Well along with our library of video tutorials, here is a Step-by-step guide to building an Ozzy Cage.  What you will need to build a 2x4 Ozzy Cage:  At Guinea Pigs Australia we try and make things as simple as possible, and have a wide range of different Ozzy Cage Kits available on our website that comes packed with everything you need to get started. In these kits you can completely customise your set up by choosing your cage size, grid colour, corflute colour, and whether you would like to add in a narrow or wide loft with a ramp for extra zooming space!  For a basic 2x4 cage you will require the following:  12x Ozzy grids (coloured or clear panels)  24x Ozzy Connectors (black or white)  2 x 4 Corflute Base (Choose your colour) Packet of small cable ties  Building the base of your Ozzy Cage:  Start by attaching 4x grids side by side, to create the back wall.  Use the Ozzy Connectors to attach the BOTTOM of each panel together. The connectors should be face up, allowing you to easily slip your grids into place.  Next add 2x grids to each end, creating an 'L' shape, for the side walls of your cage.  Place a connector at the TOP of each panel with the connectors FACE DOWN, to hold each panel into place.  The connectors can be used at each corner, slipping into both of its corresponding panels at a 90 degree angle.  Complete the front by attaching the final 4 panels as above.  Use the cable ties to secure each grid at both the top and bottom nearest the connectors. Don't forget to cut off the excess of each tie.  Preparing the Corflute Base  Unfold the corflute base  Unscrew the corflute fasteners so you have 2 individual pieces Fold in the pre-cut sides to create the edges Insert the long end of the fastener through the pre-cut hole and screw the other half of the fastener on to the opposite side, creating a corner.  Repeat the above step on all corners.  Add the corflute inside your Ozzy cage base Congratulations! You now have a 2x4 Ozzy Cage ready to decorate with soft bedding and fun accessories for your piggies!  We have a wide range of various cage sizes available on our website to suit your home and piggies. We also have the option of adding narrow and wide lofts to add extra fun and zooming space.  CLICK HERE to read our guide to choosing the appropriate cage size for your piggy family.  Don't forget to check out our Video Library for more tutorials on how to customise your Ozzy Cage.  How to build a CLASSIC Ozzy lid  How to build a LID for your Ozzy BUDDY cage How to build a SWING DOOR Ozzy lid  How to build swinging doors on your Ozzy cage How to build a 2x4 BUDDY Ozzy Cage 

Dental disease is a very common health condition that guinea pigs can develop, particularly in their older years. There are many contributing factors to dental disease, some of which include poor diet with low fibre, Vitamin C deficiency, genetics, and trauma.  Some signs that your guinea pig may have dental disease include weight loss, change in appetite, drooling or excessive salivation, or inability to chew food effectively. What to do if you suspect your guinea pig has dental disease:  The first thing you need to do is book an appointment with your cavy-savvy veterinarian. Your veterinarian will be able to examine your guinea pigs teeth (front incisors as well as back cheek teeth/molars) and assess if there are any abnormalities. A light anaesthesia may be required to facilitate a thorough examination of the cheek teeth at the back of the mouth.  Often guinea pigs with dental disease require a specialised dental procedure under general anaesthesia to correct the length and angle of the overgrown teeth. If moderate to severe dental disease is present, a surgical correction is required, otherwise the guinea pig will still be mechanically unable to chew food and eat properly.  Pain Relief Dental disease can become very painful for guinea pigs, especially if ulcers have established on the tongue and cheeks. Pain relief is extremely important when treating dental disease. It not only keeps your guinea pig more comfortable, but also encourages eating when they otherwise would refuse. Your veterinarian will be able to prescribe an adequate pain relief for your guinea pig.  Commence assisted feeding:  If you have noticed weightloss or reduced appetite, it's important to supplement your guinea pigs diet with a high fibre and nutrient dense food, such as Burgess Dual Care or Oxbow Critical Care. This is particularly important if your guinea pig has stopped eating completely as they may go into a metabolic condition known as Gut Stasis which can become life threatening. Guinea pigs spend a large portion of their day eating, and require consistent dietary fibre to ensure the gastrointestinal tract and microbiome remains balanced and moving.  Cut or grate vegetables into smaller pieces for Guinea Pig If your guinea pig is having difficulty grasping or chewing hard or large pieces of food, it may be helpful to grate vegetables or cut them into smaller pieces to allow for easier mastication. Some vegetables that can be easily grated include capsicum, carrot, cucumber, celery, and zuccini.  Increase dietary Vitamin C  Vitamin C plays a crucial role in dental health, keeping gums healthy and reduces tooth mobility. It is important to ensure your guinea pig meets their dietary vitamin C everyday, however even more so when they are unwell. Feeding a good quality pellet rich in Vitamin C, such as Burgess Guinea Pig Pellets  is recommended. It is also important to feed more Vitamin C rich vegetables such as red capsicum, parsley, spinach, kale and broccoli. 

As most piggy parents would know, guinea pigs LOVEEEEE their food! Fortunately for our hungry little critters there is a wide variety of fresh vegetables and fruits that can be added to their diet for diverse colours, textures and flavours to keep their palate satisfied.  What should my guinea pigs DAILY diet consist of?  🐹 Hay or grass is the single MOST IMPORTANT part of a guinea pigs food diet, and should make up about 80%+ of their total daily intake. Good quality, long strands of hay such as Timothy, Oaten, Meadow and Pasture hay are the most common types available in Australia for daily feeding.  🐹 Good quality, uniform pellets with a high vitamin C content such as Burgess Guinea Pig Pellets are a great choice to help supplement their diet and increase their daily vitamin C intake. We recommend AVOIDING muesli type mixes, as this can promote 'selective feeding' where guinea pigs will pick and choose what part of the pellet they will eat and leave - resulting in an unbalanced diet and nutritional deficiencies. Read more about our Top Pellet Picks here where we have compared and analysed some of the most common pellets on the market today.  🐹 Fresh fruits and vegetables. This is where a lot of our piggies favourite snacks and variety comes into play. There are so many different fresh vegetables, fruits and herbs that are safe for guinea pigs, however depending on their nutritional content, some should be offered more frequently and more occasionally than others.  How much should I feed my guinea pigs per day?  HAY: Guinea pigs should have access to fresh hay 24/7 - there is NO LIMIT for how much hay they can be offered per day.  PELLETS: The exact amount recommended will depend on the brand of pellets you choose to feed, and we recommend following the guide on the back of the bag. Burgess Excel Guinea Pig Nuggets for example, recommends 45g-60g per day depending on the size of the guinea pig.   VEGETABLES: Each guinea pig should be offered about 1 cup of fresh vegetables per day.  FRUIT: Due to their high sugar content fresh fruit should be fed in moderation, about twice per week as a treat.  What vegetables can be fed daily?  🌿Capsicum - all colours. (Red capsicum is highest in Vitamin C) 🌿Choko (high in Vitamin C) 🌿Cucumber  🌿Zucchini  🌿Lettuce (all types EXCEPT iceburg)   What vegetables can be fed in moderation (2-3 times a week) 🥕Asian Greens (Bok choy, pak choy, choy sum) 🥕 Asparagus  🥕 Broccoli (may cause gas) 🥕 Brussel sprouts (may cause gas and bloating) 🥕 Carrots and carrot tops  🥕Cabbage (may cause bloating) 🥕 Cauliflower  🥕 Celery  🥕 Chicory / Endive  🥕 Corn including kernels, leaves and silk 🥕 Green beans  🥕 Pumpkin  🥕 Radish  🥕 Tomatoes (Do NOT feed stems or leaves)   What vegetables should be fed sparingly? (Once a week or less) 🍍Beets  🍍 Kale (high in calcium) 🍍 Parsley (high in Calcium) 🍍 Pumpkin  🍍 Silverbeet (high in calcium) 🍍 Spinach (high in calcium) 🍍 Sweet potato  🍍 Turnip (high in oxalates)   What vegetables should BE AVOIDED Read more about toxic foods for guinea pigs here:  🌶 Potatoes 🌶 Onions  🌶 Chives  🌶 Spring onions  🌶 Rhubarb 🌶 Garlic  🌶 Mushrooms  🌶 Honey  🌶 Rice  🌶 Nuts  🌶 Iceburg lettuce (can cause diarrhoea)   

What can my guinea pig eat?  Guinea pigs are obligate herbivores, meaning their diet should only consist of PLANT BASED food - so what plants, fruits and vegetables are safe and what are they NOT ALLOWED to eat? There is a huge variety of different vegetables and fruits that guinea pigs love to eat. However, we do have to be very careful as there are some things that can cause life threatening illness or toxicity, and are best avoided.  What foods are guinea pigs NOT allowed to eat?  Animal Proteins As mentioned above, guinea pigs are obligate herbivores, meaning their digestive tract is only designed to digest and metabolise plant based proteins. Unlike omnivores and carnivores, guinea pigs should not be fed any material that has been produced by another animal, including meat, eggs and dairy products.  Avocado  As much as us humans may love some Avo on Toast for breakfast, it's really not a good idea to feed to our furry friends. Avocado's contain a toxic principle known as 'Persin', which is found in all parts of the plant including the leaves, stem, skin, fruit and seed. Persin is known to cause injury to the heart, resulting in heart failure and breathing difficulties which can be fatal to our piggy friends if ingested. Onion, Garlic and Chives These are a few species in the Allium spp. which contain toxic oxidants resulting in haemolysis (also known as break down of red blood cells). It usually takes 3-5 days after ingestion for the toxicity and clinical signs to occur and can result in a severe anaemia, which can be fatal. In some species a blood transfusion may be a part of treatment, but can be very challenging for the veterinary team treating our small guinea pig friends. Some signs of toxicity may include lethargy, weakness, rapid breathing, rapid heart rate and anorexia.  Peppers (Hot Peppers) Depending on what country you are from, 'Peppers' can mean a few different things. To be clear, we are talking about hot peppers such as Chilli's and Japepenos that may burn and cause an uncomfortable sensation for our piggies if ingested. They are not necessarily toxic to guinea pigs, but we wouldn't like to subject them to any king of burning sensations unnecessarily! Capsicum, also known as Bell Peppers are however completely safe for guinea pigs and are often one of their favorite snacks!  Tomato Plants  Now our red-ripe tomato fruit are in fact SAFE for guinea pigs to eat, and often a much loved snack, however the rest of the plant - not so much. Tomato plants are part of the Nightshade family, which contains a toxin in the glycoalkaloid family, which can cause severe digestive upset, diarrhoea, decreased appetite, lethargy and abdominal pain.  Potatoes Like tomato plants, potatoes are also part of the Nightshade family, and contain an alkaloid toxin known as solanine. Similar to tomato plants, ingestion can lead to digestive upset, diarrhoea, decreased appetite, lethargy and abdominal pain. Potatoes are also very high in starch which can also lead to serious digestive issues.  Mushrooms There are many different species in the mushroom family, some of which are very toxic to guinea pigs and can be fatal, others not so much - the hardest part is differentiating between the two! Despite the fact that a large quantity of the mushroom family contain toxic compounds and pose a huge risk to our furry friends if ingested, those species that are safe to feed provide a very low nutritional content. Mushrooms are very low in Vitamin C which is an essential nutrient for guinea pigs, as well as a poor calcium : phosphorous ratio, so adding little nutritional benefit to our guinea pigs diet. We strongly recommend against feeding any wild mushrooms to our piggies and unless you are certain the species of mushroom you are feeding does not contain any toxic compounds, we recommend avoid mushrooms altogether.  Fruit Seeds  Many fruits are a favourite for guinea pig snack time - mostly fed in moderation due to their high sugar content, but we should be avoiding the seeds. Apple seeds, pear seeds, cherry seeds and other fruit seeds can contain small amounts of a toxin called cyanide which at certain doses can be lethal. Apart from their toxic compound they also pose risk for a choking hazard with our small furry friends.  Iceberg Lettuce  Iceberg lettuce in itself does not contain any toxic compounds that pose risk to our guinea pigs, in fact, it is actually just 96% water! It's high water content is however the reason why we don't recommend feeding it to our guinea pigs. Iceberg lettuce only has a remaining 4% to contain nutritional contents, which overall does not provide much benefit to our piggies. The high water content can also lead to adverse effects such as diarrhoea and digestive upset, affecting the complex microbiome within our piggies digestive tract.  Rhubarb Rhubarb in very small quantities can be safe for guinea pigs, however it does contain very high concentrations of oxalic acid, which when ingested will bind to calcium in the body. Eating high amounts of Rhubarb can lead to the formation of bladder stones in guinea pigs which is often a very painful and potentially life threatening condition.  Chocolate  Chocolate is definitely a favourite dessert for humans, but not for our piggies! Chocolate is actually toxic to most animals as it contains Theobromine and Caffeine. Generally speaking, the darker the chocolate and higher cocoa content, the more toxic the product is. Chocolate ingestion can be fatal in guinea pigs, with signs occurring quite quickly, usually within 6-12hrs of ingestion. Theobromine can cause disruption to the central nervous system causing heart rate abnormalities and cardiac disturbances, which may be displayed by hyperactivity, trembling, restlessness, increased heartrate, increased body temperature and diarrhea.  Some House Plants  There are many different popular house plants that contain various toxic compounds. Before bringing a new plant home we recommend researching if it contains any toxic principles that can affect pets, or keeping it well out of reach of our piggies. 

As Summer approaches and our Aussie temperatures begin to soar - it's time to start thinking about how we are going to care for our piggies during the next few hot months. Guinea pigs originate from the Andean Mountain Range in South America - a typically cool climate, and guinea pig bodies just aren't physiologically made to cope with our sweltering Aussie days. Guinea pigs are extremely susceptible to heat stroke, and if left untreated can be fatal within only a number of minutes!  Read all about Heat Stress in Guinea Pigs here.  What can I do at home to prevent heat stress and keep my Guinea Pigs cool and comfortable?  Indoor Housing  One of the first things we recommend is housing your guinea pig indoors where the temperature can be more controlled, especially if you are not going to be at home to check on them if the weather was to change. Keeping your piggies indoors, preferably with a fan or air-conditioning during the day can.  Outdoor Housing  If you are unable to keep your guinea pigs indoors it is important to ensure they will have shade available at all stages throughout the day. Unfortunately many guinea pigs suffer from heat stress because they are left in a shady area in the morning, but as the sun and shade moves throughout the day they may be left subjected to hot and direct sunlight in the middle of the day or afternoons. Remember to keep this in mind when positioning your guinea pigs cage for the day.  Water Ensure your guinea pig has constant access to fresh drinking water. It is important that your guinea pigs stay well hydrated throughout the day and you may notice they are drinking much more water and require more regular bottle refills than during the cooler months. Check your guinea pigs water every day.  Ice-bricks, Frozen Blocks or Frozen Water Bottles Some guinea pigs will LOVE to snuggle up next to a frozen ice-brick in their cage. When choosing an ice-brick be sure to get a solid plastic brick that is unable to be chewed through - guinea pigs love to chew and explore so may try and nibble anything new! Soft ice packs containing gel are not ideal incase your guinea pig does chew and ingest the contents. You can also use frozen water bottles to the same effect. We recommend wrapping your ice brick or water bottle in a cover or tea-towel prior to placing them in the cage.  High Water Content Vegetables  I know we love a nice piece of juicy watermelon on a warm Summer's day - and so do our piggies! Feeding vegetables and the occasional fruit that has high water content can help to keep your piggies cool and hydrated! Cucumber and watermelon are a few great examples!   

Guinea Pigs Australia Gifts It's almost the end of 2024 and Christmas is looming! What an amazing year it has been at Guinea Pigs Australia. For those who don't know, Guinea Pigs Australia is a small, family-owned and operated Australian business located in the Gold Coast - Queensland. We are a team of passionate piggy parents with years of experience in guinea pig ownership, as well as the veterinary industry. Our goal is to provide the safest and best quality products and enrichment for our guinea pigs and their fur parents, as well as spread education, awareness and knowledge about guinea pig care, to continuously improve their lives. Every single product that we stock has gone through a rigorous testing period to ensure we are only endorsing the best! This year the GPA team has been working tirelessly to provide our Aussie piggies with the best products yet - check out our guide below on our favourite items of 2024!  *HINT* They also make great Christmas gifts!  Ozzy Cage with Designer and Clear Panels  The first thing every piggy fam needs is a place to live - why not invest in an Ozzy cage! They are the leading C&C style cage on the market with a '9x9' grid size for increased piggy safety. There are multiple 'designer' colours to choose from, including white, black, aqua, pink and purple. This year we have also introduced transparent panels which we believe has really elevated the cage game and adds a certain aesthetic to your piggies home.   Ozzy Cages can be purchased in a kit with everything you need, including the panels, corflute and connectors in various different sizes and colour combinations to really customise your look. You can also buy parts separately if you are wanting to expand or change up your cage style.  Don't forget the Ozzy add-ons including double story lofts, ramps, cage stands, storage boxes, lids and doors.  SHOP OUR OZZY CAGES HERE:  Ozzy Cage Wheels We realise one of the most frustrating parts about indoor housing is when our piggies kick hay and poops out everywhere, like a game of poopy basketball with the net being in the most hardest to reach places! But low and behold we have a solution! Ozzy wheels have been a real GAMECHANGER this year, allowing us to move our piggy palace around, making it easy to clean behind and underneath their cage. They are petite and aesthetically pleasing without adding too much bulkiness to their home, and also makes re-locating from one area of the home to another much easier.  SHOP OUR OZZY WHEELS HERE:    Ozzy Cage Liners with Matching Accessories Our favourite product launch of 2024 was definitely the design and creation of our very own custom one of a kind fleece liners with a bunch of beautifully designed matching accessories. Each design features an adorable piggy pattern, and we can't wait to see what 2025 brings to the Ozzy range!  All of our liners and accessories can be purchased individually or in an all inclusive bundle.  SHOP VEGGIE PATCH DESIGN HERE:  SHOP RAINBOW HEARTS DESIGN HERE:  SHOP EARTHCHILD DESIGN HERE:  Ozzy Decos If there is one thing we love more than just guinea pigs, it is having FUN with our guinea pigs! This year we have launched our NEW and EXCLUSIVE Ozzy Decos to customise and personalise your Ozzy cage. The decos are designed to be used on clear panels, but can be used on any flat surface around your piggies home! Worried about putting them in the wrong place? No Problem! Our decos are designed to be easily removed and re-used over 300 times! At the moment we have 3 general sticker packs including 'the Original', 'Just for Fun', and the 'props set'.  This year we even have 3x Christmas themed sets to add some festive spirit to your piggies home.  SHOP OUR OZZY DECOS HERE:  Ozzy Treats If there is one way to a guinea pig's heart, it is definitely via food and treats! Ozzy treats are an Australian treat brand, locally handmade in Queensland. There are many treat flavours to choose, regularly adding new fruits into the mix depending on seasonal availability. Some of our Summer Flavours include the all time favourite Pea Flakes, Mango, Strawberry and Blueberry flavours! As well as special limited edition Christmas specials. Each treat is filled with high fibre ingredients including timothy hay and fresh, locally sourced ingredients.  SHOP OUR OZZY TREAT RANGE HERE:  Are you a NEW piggy parent or thinking about adding a piggy to your family this Christmas?  Now we would like to re-iterate, guinea pigs are LONG TERM commitments and not a spur of the moment gift, with an average lifespan of 6+ years.  However if you are ready to commit to the wonderful companionship a piggy will bring to the family, then we have everything you need to get started! At GPA your will find a menagerie of different cages, food options, toys and accessories. If you have any questions or queries about what you need prior to bringing your first piggy home please don't hesitate to reach out to our knowledgeable pig-tastic team who are more than happy to help.   SHOP NEW PIGGY PARENT STARTER KIT: 

Our Festive Guinea Pig Favourites Christmas time is almost here and it's time to get festive! Santa Paws has visited the Guinea Pigs Australia warehouse early this year and dropped off a bunch of NEW Christmas goodies for our piggies and their hooman family members to enjoy. Most of our 2024 Christmas Range has been lovingly designed by our local Aussie GPA team with months of work in the background - and we are so excited to finally share it with you!  We have listed our ultimate Christmas themed 2024 wish list below - We hope you enjoy it as much as we do!  The Christmas Cottage  Our favourite Christmas pick this year is definitely the Christmas Cottage - have you seen anything cuter and more fun?! It has been tried and tested amongst the GPA team this year and is a firm fav of both the piggies and their hoomans. The cavy-condo is made from super sturdy and safe wooden materials, and comes with over 30 re-usable festive decals! This is a super fun activity to get the kids involved in creating their masterpiece, and the floofy family members will be sure to enjoy sleeping in the cottage once it's done! Don't forget to keep the sticker backing so you can re-use the decals for many festive seasons to come!  Ozzy Christmas Treats  The best way to a guinea pigs heart is always treats - and what better way to spoil them this Christmas than with the NEW Ozzy Treat range. Our treats are HANDMADE with love in Queensland, Australia. With two special limited-edition Christmas flavours this year your piggies will be sure to find a new favourite! We only use the highest of quality ingredients, containing high fibre and various fruit and berry blends.  Shop our Magic of Christmas Mix      Christmas Ozzy Decals Our NEW 2024 Ozzy Decals are here! And we didn't forget the addition of a Limited Edition Christmas vesion! You can use our decals in so many different ways to create a festive home for your piggy. This is also a fantastic way to get the kids involved - and can be re-used for many festive seasons to come! Place your decals on:  Clear Panels  Corflute  Wall  Wooden or flat accessories  Use as photo props Shop here to view our all inclusive decal range:  Shop Ozzy Decals set 1:  Shop Ozzy Decals set 2:  Shop Ozzy Decals Set 3: HAYPIGS Cavy Candy Cane Tilting Tunnel If you have been a piggy parent for a while chances are you have seen the HAYPIGS circus range before, but did you know they also do an XMAS EXCLUSIVE tunnel?! The candy cane theme is just so cute! This tilting tunnel adds hours of enrichment and enjoyment to your piggies home as they zoom through it or even sleep in it -as well as adding festive vibes.  Shop the Cavy Candy Cane Tilting Tunnel here:  Why not try a Bundle Package?  We know it can be SO HARD to choose with so many great options available this year, so we have made it easy by bundling some of our best sellers! Our bundles are loaded with handmade treats and fun Christmas toys loved by all piggies.  Check out our GPA Christmas Bundles here. Christmas Picks for the Piggy Parents As much as we love spoiling our furry family members at Christmas time, it's also a good opportunity to spoil the piggy parents as well! After all... think about how many poops they have cleaned and how many veggies they have chopped this year, all whilst getting squealed at every time the fridge door opens?! This year at GPA we have bought to life our very own custom Guinea Pig Merch, designed by Potato Portraits.  Adorable Christmas Shirts How adorable are our NEW 2024 PIGSMAS shirts?! This is definitely a favourite amongst the GPA fam and we can't wait to rock these on Christmas Day! The shirts are available in 5 different colours (red, black, white, navy and sport grey) and sizes ranging from 'S' up to '5XL'. Check out the size guide on our website.  Shop the 'Merry Pigsmas' range For the Coffee Lovers..... It may not be everyone's 'cup of tea', but two of my favourite things in the whole entire world are guinea pigs and a morning coffee - so why not combine the two? Guinea Pigs Australia has SO MANY different mug designs to choose from - which one would you like to sip a hot chocolate from on Christmas Eve?  Shop our mug range here: 

By incorporating DIY projects into your rabbit’s routine, you can ensure they live a happy, healthy, and fulfilling life. So, start crafting, baking, and building today—your bunny will thank you for it!

Black Friday is the perfect time to grab amazing deals on pet rabbit cages, bunny rabbit toys, guinea pig toys and accessories, and much more. Whether you’re looking to upgrade your pet’s habitat with a larger C&C cage or treat them to new pet toys, here at Guinea Pigs Australia, we offer Black Friday offers with significant savings that you won’t want to miss.

Ovarian cysts are one of the most common reproductive disorders seen in female guinea pigs. The causation of these cysts forming is still unknown, however there is a high correlation between the incidence of cysts and increasing age of guinea pigs. This condition is believed to affect up to 80% of female guinea pigs by the age of 6 years! Guinea pigs as young as 1 or 2 years old have also been seen with ovarian cysts, with average formation between ages of 2 and 4 years old. Guinea pigs with ovarian cysts also have a higher likelihood of developing other reproductive disorders such as abnormalities to the uterine lining, and uterine cancers. What are ovarian cysts? Cysts are fluid-filled structures that arise from ovarian or peri-ovarian structures. There are two main types of ovarian cysts seen in guinea pigs:               Cystic rete Ovarii (serous cysts) – These are the most common type. These cysts can grow extremely large, and can potentially get so big they start compressing surrounding structures and organs, causing organ disfunction and extreme pain. This type of cystic fluid often contains higher concentrations of hormones estradiol and progesterone, which due to these hormonal changes can result in hairloss over the guinea pigs abdomen – one of the most common external signs of cystic ovaries.               The second most common type of cyst are follicular cysts – these cysts arise from normal ovarian follicles that fail to ovulate. These follicles also produce higher concentrations of hormones that may result in alopecia (hairloss). Some other external signs you might see associated with these hormonal changes is crusty nipples and behavioural changes. Signs of Cystic Ovaries in Guinea Pigs Some guinea pigs may develop ovarian cysts and not display any outward signs, which can make it difficult to diagnose, or may be an incidental finding during other tests. Some guinea pigs may develop cystic ovaries and never have any health issues. Some of the common signs associated with cystic ovaries include: Alopecia (hairloss) on both sides of the abdomen. This hairloss generally does not cause any itchiness and is evenly distributed on both sides. Crusty and sometimes enlarged nipples An enlarged, distended abdomen, sometimes in a ‘pear shape’. Pain or vocalisation when touching the abdomen Changes in behaviour such as increased aggression or excessive mounting of cage mates. Weight gain OR weight loss Vaginal discharge that may be associated with concurrent uterine pathology Large cysts may compress the gastrointestinal tract causing anorexia, weight loss or reduced faecal production Reduced reproductive performance (inability to fall pregnant)   How do I find out if my guinea pig has cystic ovaries? It is important to book an appointment with your veterinarian if you suspect your guinea pig has ovarian cysts. Diagnosis is usually made via ultrasound to detect the abnormal fluid filled structures. If large enough some vets may be able to palpate the cysts. What is the treatment for Ovarian Cysts in Guinea Pigs? Surgical removal of the female reproductive tract (also known as ovariohysterectomy) is the treatment of choice. This procedure is also referred to as ‘Spey’ or ‘desexing’. This surgical procedure MUST be performed by a registered veterinary surgeon. It is sometimes opted to drain the cysts via a procedure called 'aspiration'. This is only a temporary measure to alleviate pain, and the cysts will eventually return anywhere from a few days to a few weeks. Some veterinarians may choose this method for guinea pigs in which surgical intervention is not advisable, particularly if they have other concurrent underlying health issues. There are also risks associated with aspiration, especially if one of the cysts burst inside the abdomen, and can result in death.   How do I prevent my guinea pig from developing ovarian cysts? The only known way to prevent the formation of ovarian cysts and other uterine pathology is to desex your female guinea pig and remove the ovaries and uterus. We recommend doing this in younger animals who are healthy with no underlying health conditions, as they can  often tolerate the anaesthetic and surgery much better and have a faster recovery with less chance of post-operative complications.

Neutering guinea pigs, is also alternatively referred to as sterilisation or desexing. It is a sensitive topic for many guinea pig owners as there is without a doubt a risk for our furry little friends to undergo an anaesthetic and surgical procedure (just like any other animal or human)  – however the risk is relative depending on the knowledge and experience of your cavy-savvy veterinarian and overall health of your guinea pig. There are many health benefits to neutering guinea pigs, including eliminating the risk of various types of reproductive cancers and other health conditions.  WHAT HAPPENS DURING A NEUTERING PROCEDURE? First lets go over some basic definitions: Castration is the correct term for the procedure in male guinea pigs, and involves surgical removal of both testicles. Spey (or spay) is the correct term for neutering female guinea pigs, and usually involves removal of both ovaries and the uterus. There are a number of different surgical methods to sterilise female guinea pigs, including only removing the ovaries or uterus independently – however leaving either of these organs behind can lead to reproductive cysts and tumours. We recommend having a conversation with your surgeon in regards to the best options for your guinea pig.  What happens on the day of the surgery will vary between different veterinary hospitals, however most veterinarians will recommend bringing your guinea pig in for a hospital admit appointment in the morning where you will go through some paperwork with the vet or nurses. If you have any questions this is a great opportunity to ask (we also recommend having a consultation prior to surgery day to discuss your pet, their surgical plan, and any concerns you may have. This also allows for the opportunity for your vet to collect a blood sample and send away for testing ahead of surgery, to ensure they are fit and healthy – making for a safer anaesthetic and procedure! Generally it is a day procedure and your guinea pig will be ready for discharge in the evening. Some veterinarians may recommend keeping your pets in hospital longer for monitoring and supportive care until they have completely recovered from the anaesthetic and are eating, pooping, and ready to go home.  AT WHAT AGE SHOULD I NEUTER MY GUINEA PIG? Generally speaking it is recommended to desex your guinea pigs whilst they are young, strong and healthy, prior to developing any underlying health conditions or reproductive disorders. Exact age recommendations do vary, and it is recommended to discuss this with your local cavy savvy veterinarian to find the age and size they are comfortable with.  WHAT ARE SOME IMPORTANT ASPECTS OF MY GUINEA PIGS RECOVERY AFTER SURGERY Guinea pigs have very complex gastrointestinal microflora, and any kind of drugs or anaesthetics can quickly disrupt the sensitive balance that facilitates digestion. One of the most common post-operative complications in guinea pigs is gastrointestinal stasis where the gut slows down, and sometimes even stops moving – this becomes a life threatening condition! It is very important we ensure our guinea pigs are constantly eating, especially after undergoing an anaesthetic or surgery, keeping their gastrointestinal tract moving along. Burgess Dual Care or Oxbow Critical Care are two great products that are very important for post-op recovery, as they allow us to syringe feed and supplement our guinea pigs diet with high fibre and nutrient rich ingredients. Guinea pigs are notorious chewers as we know, and unfortunately this means that sometimes they choose to chew their surgical site as well! It is important to visualise the surgical site every day until it is completely healed, and if you do notice any redness, swelling, discharge or inflammation, be sure to check in with your vet for a post-op check to make sure everything is ok. It is important to keep your guinea pigs home clean, dry and hygienic in their recovery period. This is because guinea pigs have such short little legs, their surgical sites (particularly males) are often touching the ground. Lying in moist or unsanitary conditions will increase the risk of developing post-op infections, which can also become life threatening! Male guinea pigs can remain fertile for up to 6 weeks after surgical sterilisation – this means we highly recommend keeping him separate from any female piggies during this time period to avoid any unwanted pregnancies. WHAT ARE THE HEALTH BENEFITS TO DESEXING MY FEMALE GUINEA PIG? Reduction in unwanted pregnancies. This is one of the most obvious and important reasons behind desexing, as unfortunately our Aussie rescues and shelters are overflowing with unwanted guinea pigs looking for homes! Did you know the average litter size is between about 2 and 4 pups, and female guinea pigs can have up to 5 litters per year?! This means that they can have around 20 pups per year - which is a lot of babies to find homes for! Not to mention the health implications it can have on the sow.  Eliminates the risk of uterine and ovarian cancers  Eliminates the risk of cystic ovaries - a very common condition in female guinea pigs. Generally cysts are benign in nature, however can grow very large and cause pain and discomfort as well as hormonal hair loss.   Reduces the risk of mammary cancer development   WHAT ARE THE HEALTH BENEFITS TO DESEXING MY MALE GUIINEA PIG? Just like female guinea pigs, it will stop unwanted pregnancies. Neutered boars often live quite happily amongst a herd of sows. If you are wanting to keep both male and female guinea pigs together but avoid frequent pregnancies, the surgical procedure to sterilise male guinea pigs is much less invasive and poses a lower risk of peri-operative and post-operative complications than that of a female. Eliminates risk of testicular cancer Decreases the risk of faecal impaction. This is a common development in older, entire boars, where faeces gets stuck inside the anus. This starts to accumulate over time, and will develop a strong and unpleasant odour, as well as cause local irritation, local infections or even urinary tract infections. Due to the large size of guinea pig testicles, over time they start to weigh down the surrounding areas, stretching ligaments and tissue, and reducing muscle tone that is used to expel faecal pellets normally. If your guinea pig develops faecal impaction, it will require daily cleaning and maintenance (which is not an overly fun job). You may notice a decrease in certain unwanted behaviours such as aggression, humping and mounting. Note neutering boars will often reduce these behaviours however is not guaranteed to stop these behaviours in all guinea pigs.  

  What exactly is Bumblefoot? (Or otherwise known as PODODERMATITIS) Pododermatitis, or more commonly referred to as ‘bumblefoot’ is a condition causing inflammation of the footpads – ‘PODO’ meaning foot, and ‘DERMATITIS’ meaning inflammation of the skin. It is essentially a pressure sore caused by prolonged pressure on the skin, and can become very severe and painful. Unfortunately it is one of the MOST COMMON conditions and reasons why guinea pigs present to veterinarians. What causes bumblefoot to develop?  This condition is often caused by reduced mobility where the guinea pig stands in one place for prolonged periods of time, causing increased pressure on the feet and reduced blood flow and circulation. Conditions such as obesity, arthritis, lameness, pain, and other illnesses that result in reduced mobility can also predispose to the development of bumblefoot.  Another common cause is housing with hard and inappropriate flooring. Cages that have wire bottoms, particularly a lot of outdoor cages used to be very popular, however we now know the detrimental effects that hard wire can have on sensitive piggy feet.  What does Bumblefoot look like? It usually starts with just some reddening of the skin on the bottom of the feet, this can be quite mild and will usually resolve once the underlying cause has been corrected, such as providing soft bedding, encouraging exercise or treating any illness.  If the underlying cause is not corrected, the condition will continue to progress and ulcers will start to form. These ulcers are extremely painful and will result in guinea pigs not wanting to walk, further exacerbating the condition. These ulcers will continue getting deeper and more severe, and the foot will start to swell and increase in size. When ulcers develop, guinea pigs will be more at risk of developing secondary infections in the open wounds, especially if they are standing on moist or soiled bedding.  Eventually, due to being under constant pressure, blood flow will stop going to the most impacted areas, and the tissue will start to die off. Eventually the infection will reach the underlying soft tissue, tendons, joints and bones, which holds a very poor prognosis for recovery. Severe conditions can also start to impact liver and kidney function.   *photos shared from Oxbow Animal Health Website Is my guinea pig at risk of bumblefoot? Bumblefoot is a very common condition, and can affect any guinea pig at any time, however there are a few predisposing factors that may put them at increased risk.  • Medical conditions or illness that leads to inactivity • Obesity, putting extra weight on the feet and joints - Obese guinea pigs are also often less active• Restricted cage space that inhibits your guinea pig from moving around • Abrasive flooring, wire bottom cages, concrete and hard floor surfaces. Rough straw bedding can also cause foot punctures.  • Poor sanitation - moist and unhygienic conditions such as urine and faecal soiling of the feet will aggravate the condition and be more likely to develop secondary infections. • Hypovitaminosis C (Vitamin C deficiency) leads to abnormal skin collagen formation, and delayed  wound healing.  • Poor conformation such as limb deformities or lameness, which leads to increased weight bearing on the other feet What should I do if I suspect my guinea pig has developed pododermatitis? Veterinary care should be sought for all cases of suspected bumblefoot, even if the condition is only mild, as it can be very painful (think about walking with blisters on your feet all day).  The most important part of treating pododermatitis is to resolve the underlying cause for the condition.  This may involve providing appropriate bedding or cage substrate creating soft surfaces for your pet to stand and lie on, and ensuring the housing is clean , dry and sanitary. A vet visit is always warranted as the earlier it can be treated the better the prognosis is. If your pet appears unwell or other medical conditions have lead to the reduced mobility, more tests or treatment by your veterinarian may be required to resolve the underlying illness. If your guinea pig is not eating it will require supplement feeding to provide adequate nutrition. Burgess Dual Care is a great supplement feed if required and we highly recommend every piggy owner has some stocked up in their piggy emergency kit.  More severe conditions that involve ulceration, swelling of the foot, and involvement of bones and tendons will require long and extensive medical or surgical management. Treatment can be difficult, and a very long and labour intensive road to recovery. Some treatment options depending on the severity of the condition may involve pain relief, antibiotics, cleaning and dressing of wounds by your veterinarian, and in some very severe cases amputation of the limb or euthanasia. How can I prevent my guinea pig from getting pododermatitis? The best way to prevent bumblefoot is to avoid the predisposing risk factors.  • Provide soft bedding and flooring surfaces. Vet bed or Ozzy liners are a great option. Avoid housing guinea pigs in cages with wire bottoms or hard and abrasive surfaces.  • Provide good husbandry and a clean and sanitary environment. Choose a bedding that wicks away moisture to prevent urine scalding and bacteria from entering any wounds.  • Provide a suitable diet, ensuring dietary Vitamin C requirements are met. Offer a complete diet consisting of good quality hay, good quality pellets high in Vitamin C, and a variety of fresh vegetables daily.  • Provide a large cage with ample floor space to encourage mobility and exercise. We highly recommend Ozzy cages as they are completely customisable, can be made to fit any space in your home and are easy to expand if your piggy numbers increase. They can also be easily fitted with soft bedding, and are easy to clean and maintain. Ozzy cages are made with your pets health in mind and tick all the boxes to keep their little feet happy and healthy. • Monitor your piggies weight and avoid obesity. It is important to encourage exercise, by both providing a large enclosure with plenty of floor space for zoomies and popcorning, as well as providing different toys and accessories to keep your piggies entertained.  Check out our YOUTUBE CHANNEL for more healthcare videos